@bscar2. You have a good memory. I sold the 1978 Oldsmobile almost 6 years ago-- not long after I retired. By today’s standards, it was simple. It didn’t have power windows or power door locks. It did have power steering and power brakes as well as air conditioning and an automatic transmission. It had an AM only radio, no rear window defroster, no air bags, no clock. The engine had a two barrel carburetor and no computers. My 1965 Rambler was even more basic–three speed manual transmission, no windshield washer and no backup lights. There were no door switches to turn on the interior lights when the doors were opened. There wasn’t even an outside rear view mirror. Even more basic was my 1947 Pontiac. It didn’t have turning signals. There was a.floor.pedal to operate the starter. Depressing the pedal pushed the starter drive into the flywheel and closed the starter switch. For a really basic car, I recommend the King Midget. The basic model came with a one cylinder Wisconsin air cooled engine with a recoil rope.starter.
In case you did not know there is a King Midget web site and they have a yearly get together and show.
Think earlier. Airbags were already coming in by the early 90’s. You’ve actually got a fairly narrow window between carburetors and airbag. You’re probably looking between, say, '87 and '92.
Want a fun one? Get a 1988-1991 Honda CRX. Fuel injected, no airbags, really simple to work on, and an absolute blast to drive. If you can find one in decent shape you’ll love it.
I suggest a GEO METRO! I have two and they are about as simple as they come. Get the 1989-1994 era. Anything older is the Chevy Sprint and that is hard to find parts for. 1995 and newer start to get more complex. Basically these are great little reliable cars if you take care of them but are complete death traps in an accident. You have no antilock brakes, no airbags, and nothing that can be hacked. They have a simple throttle body fuel injection system and get 50+ mpg. It is a tin can can on wheels but a very dependable one if you take care of it. Get a 3 cylinder.
You want to watch for RUST. They didn’t make these to resist rust well so get underneath with a flashlight before buying one and look for rotted out floor pans and structural components. The other issue is that they were cheap car to start with so many people never changed the oil. They just added oil. The engines actually are made pretty tight and don’t hold up well to neglect so stick valves, rings, and the like. Give the engine a basic once over and make sure they run well. If it smokes and burns oil either avoid that one or plan to rebuild it as it will burn valves. That is a weak link especially if they burn oil. Check for no or very low compression on one cylinder if you are worried. The 3 cyl runs lopsided from new so the odd idle is normal.
Seriously, they are about as simple as it gets and there is plenty of room under the hood to work. I can even use the oil filter for these things on my riding mowers.
You will never fall in love with such a basic and cheap car that was designed to be a throwaway from the start. The Suzuki Swift of that era is the same car as well. They even made a convertible.
With no turn signals, did you use hand signals ?
Sounds like the King Midge was a regular speed demon ?
Wiki does not list top speed.
It had no speedometer, but how fast could a 1 cylinder go.
@andrew_kennedy7 I ordered a turning signal kit from the Montgomery Ward catalogue for my 1947 Pontiac. It included the turning signal switch, replacement sockets with dual filament bulbs for the parking lights, wiring and complete instructions. The switch was mounted on the steering column and had a little rubber roller that rubbed against the hub of the steering wheel which allowed the signals to be self cancelling. I don’t think new cars were required to be equipped with turn signals until 1956.
With the Pinto you’re lucky to be alive.
I actually own a 1995 Dodge Ram WT RWD (base model) with V6. Bought it new. This is about as basic as it gets for a 90’s truck. Has a/c, cruise, stereo, auto trans. No power windows or door locks. Manual seat. Currently 127k (I don’t drive it much). The most major mechanical issues were replacing the timing gears and the steering box (total of $1200). If you don’t need to pull a trailer or regularly haul heavy loads this will be adequate. Don’t expect any tire smoking burnouts with 175hp trying to move 2 tons of truck. Trouble is finding one that hasn’t been abused and/or has high mileage.
I think a 91 Ford Ranger or the like might be good
I would say this about the airbag issue: there are still millions of Takata airbags in use and it will be years before there will be enough of them to replace any current ones. That last I heard there were 15 or 20 million cars with these things in them. That said, in my opinion, properly working airbags are a must have.
Hah! The microprocessor used in the old C64 was a pinnacle of processing power compared to the simple microcontroller used in the ECM of that vintage of truck. The ECM processing of that time didn’t require any more power than that…
My 1988 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Sport pickup just got home from a 700 mile trip in which it ran perfectly and burned no oil at all, and it rolled to 202,000 miles on the way out. So, if you can find one, that’s a good one to get if you want some serious hauling capacity (I’ve had the bed loaded with a yard of soaking wet topsoil before, and topsoil is around 1.3 tons dry) in a 5-speed truck. 
Really, VERY curious, (if this is waterboy), why in a 2011 thread about car won’t start unless gas pedal is held to the floor, You asked if there was any difference if/when turning the key the driver paused with the key in the on position for 20 seconds before turning the key to start the vehicle??? Well in my case it made a vast difference. The car started right away. I didn’t have to hold pedal to the floor and crank it over and over and over till it starts. What does the 20 second pause do and what does it signify is my likely car malfuntion?
You might as well start a new post, but if I understand the question correctly if the car has an electronic fuel pump the 20 seconds will build up the loss pressure in the fuel system typically caused by a bad backflow preventer, commonly a part of the fuel pump.
Kudos to your power of investigation!
Just got this car and trying to figure out it’s quirks, fix what I can or can figure out, most important first. Was told a new fuel filter had been installed but he suspected one of the quick disconnects wasn’t completely or properly seated and/or a line had gotten partially crimped when his brother reinstalled the fuel tank. Thanks.
You have tagged onto a thread that has nothing to do with your questions. Please start your own thread. You can do that by clicking on the ’ New Topics ’ button.