My brake pedal has a bit more travel.
Recent oil change review, all pads at 10mm except left rear at 5mm. I am guessing a sticking caliper or sometning similar.
The shop suggests letting it go till it needs new pads, then new pads for the rear and resurface rotors. I imagine they will throw in a new caliper also.
I have always avoided brake work since a bud nearly put an eye out trying to hook a drum brake spring on with a screwdriver. He went to the ER, had pushed his bottom eyelid up and it stuck, he thought he had blinded himself.
If it was your car what would you do?
The correct tools for that job would probably have been considerably cheaper than the ER bill.
As for the uneven pad wear, were both pads on that wheel equally worn? If the caliper race is rough and the lubricant washed off the outer pad can drag and wear much more quickly than the inner pad that pushes the piston in.
I am not sure if it is the outer or inner pad, as there is only one number for LF, RF, LR and RR, my guess is it is the minimum mm on the worst pad.
This vehicle has disc brakes front and rear. No springs to hassle with. It does sound like the caliper is not gliding on its pins, or its piston is seized in its bore.
I’d wait untill the first wear indicator starts to squeal and replace the pads (and service the slides, rotors, ect) myself wearing eye protection and likely gloves. 
If you don’t want to do the brakes, same advice, but take it to your favorite shop to get done.
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Rear brakes easy on TB. Just did mine last month. Forget resurfacing. Coated rear rotors aren’t all that expensive. Inspect worn brake side, likely stuck caliper.
I’ve found it’s usually cheaper to proactively replace pads before they reach minimum. The less pad material seems to get hotter and wear rotors faster.
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I was thinking of a cheaper way out, have a mechanic bud check out, check or repace the caliper and just throw new pads on the LR
Well, I almost always just replace pads and don’t touch rotors unless they need it. I can go through several sets of pads before rotors act up if I change them proactively before they get so worn that they are really tearing up the rotors. This was first rear brake job on this TB I bought a couple years ago. Needed rear rotors. I was pleasantly surprised that they were decent price for the coated ones that take much longer to show rust on the non-swept areas. I almost always find slider pins that need some clean up and re-greasing on the TB.
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Do not delay this repair if the caliper is seizing up. I had to replace my brand new rotor,brake pads and caliper several month after doing the brake job because the old caliper piston decided to freeze in his bore. Brake started to squeek like mad and the wheel got so hot I could feel the heat from 3 feet away.
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@Barkydog, I would recommend to address your problem before your get brakes failing (either by yourself or by a trusted mechanic) and do “everything around” to make sure you do not return to the same area only to replace next piece failing
recently I had to redo rear-side brake calipers on my daughter’s 2007 as they started to seize and I did not want her to get stranded somewhere far from civilization
I was surprised how cheap it was to get a set of caliper piston seals on RockAuto, it was something like $4, no need to go for full caliper replacement
while there, I decided to swap rubber hoses as well, costed something like $7 a piece
the total for caliper piston seals, hoses, 2 rotors and pads totaled to around $75 delivered
spent under 2 hours to carefully reassemble everything, another 15 minutes to burn-in/set the pads/rotors and it works like new again
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So I took it to my mechanic bud, he looked it over. As mentioned previously excessive brake pedal travel. Regular shop due to convenience noted left rear pad at 5mm, vs 10mm for all the other pads, let it go then we will do new pads and resurface the rotors on the rear. His conclusion all pads looked fine for consistent wear and mm. Slides on the 2 front calipers were frozen, so he replaced the 2 front calipers, lubricated the slides on the back. His thought do it now and avoid a brake job. $275. I am happy Brakes are good, no excessive travel in the pedal, but would like to hear your input. Gawd is it petal or pedal, brake or break …
pedal is the thing you push, petal is part of a flower
brake is the car part, break is when something breaks, comes apart.
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It’s pedal and brake, but getting good help with the problem is more important. This is a car forum, not an English forum.
In academia there’s a concept called “writing across curriculum” that encourages teachers of all disciplines to correct improper English including punctuation, but not reduce the students’ marks unless the course is teaching English. Its goal is to encourage and support proper English in students more effectively than teaching the skills in only English classes. I supported the program in classes, still do, but I’m happy on an internet forum if a poster can describe their problem effectively. I tend to ignore spelling and grammar as long as the point is clear.
Besides, I flunked English. And I routinely start sentences with conjunctions. And after all these years I still don’t know what a dangling participle is (please don’t try to enlighten me). To me it sounds like a subatomic particle, perhaps a boson or a quark.
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