Here is a neat little work-around for trailer lighting problems…Install replacement L.E.D. 1157 bulbs in the trailer light sockets…Many cars (and trucks) will rebel when a trailers wiring is spliced into the cars system. The extra load of the trailer lights is just too much for the cars fuses and switches and flashers to handle. Nasty problems can result, like blown fuses, melted headlight switches and turn signal switches…But if you install these new super low amperage L.E.D. replacement bulbs, the cars electrical system will hardy notice the added load and everything works fine…
Most bulbs used in automotive lighting are now available in an LED version. If you find the ones in parts stores to be too pricey, try eBay for a more reasonable price-point…
How did I discover this? The hard way! I use a 1992 Crown Vic to tow a 20’ sailboat…This model Vic has 6 running lights in the rear, 2 in the front, (that’s 8 1157’s lit plus the instrument panel lights…This is the parking/running light load…The boat trailer added 2 more 1157’s plus 4 clearance lights…All this currant has to pass through one contact on the headlight switch. When my tail-lights stopped working, I found not a blown fuse but a melted connection at the headlight switch…The 20 year old connection developed high resistance, got hot, and that was that…Using the LED bulbs makes the trailer load disappear and cured the problem…