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Toyota running out of oil

I have a 2001 toyota corolla with a manual transmission that I just bought that has about 130,000 miles on it. It runs very well except for it runs out of oil about every 150 to 200 miles. The car does not seem to be leaking oil, however revving the engine in the slightest causes the car to smoke from the exhaust pipe. We tried changing the oil as well as putting in high mileage oil and sea foam motor treatment. This helped slightly but not much. We are looking for an inexpensive way to fix this problem so we do not have to spend so much on oil.

There are some cheap and easy things you can try to solve this problem, like checking the PCV system or valve stem seals for a pricey shot in the dark, but odds are you ended up with one of the infamous sludged up 1ZZFE Toyota engines. When Toyota built these engines, they didn’t make enough drain holes for the oil control rings. Consequently, the few holes they did make have a tendency of clogging up with coked oil. The result is phenomenal oil consumption. The solution is to rebuild the engine with redesigned pistons. Here is a picture of what I am talking about. The piston on the left is the redesigned one that is much less prone to sludging up. The one on the right is what Toyota originally installed in your engine.

If you just bought this car, did you notice the smoke when you purchased it?? How much did you pay?? Did you get it from a dealer or a person??

You’re looking at a new engine no matter what and you can expect the current engine to run progressively worse over time.
The oil that is being consumed is going to coat O2 sensors, converter substrate, and possibly even clog the muffler up over time.
Even with a new engine you can reasonably expect problems with the O2s and converter along with possible EGR system faults, etc. and that would be an additional expense on top of the engine.

Unfortunately, there is not likely to be any inexpensive fix for this problem, and it is likely to be related to the known issue of oil sludging in Toyota engines of this vintage. A previous owner who “extended” the oil change intervals could have actually exacerbated the existing issue.

As mark suggested, changing the PCV valve and cleaning the PCV hose might help a bit, but if oil consumption has reached the point of “running out of oil about every 150 to 200 miles”, there is already major damage to this engine. And, no matter what led to the high rate of oil consumption in the first place, running the engine with a low oil level has geometrically increased the wear inside the engine.
Translation=this engine will need to be replaced or rebuilt.

Whoever sold you this car hoodwinked you into buying severely damaged goods, and there will not be a cheap solution to the problem. But, no matter what you choose to do with this car, please learn from the experience and try to make sure that your next car is one that comes with full maintenance records.

But, whether a used car comes with maintenance records or not, it is imperative to have it inspected by a mechanic of your choice, prior to purchase. A compression test and a few other procedures by a competent mechanic could have prevented you from buying this car.

Are you adding 1 quart every 200 miles or 4~5 quarts?
If it’s 4~5, then you now know why the previous owner got rid of it.

Cheapest solution would be a new engine. Though you might luck out at a Toyota dealership and they extend some good will if it turns out to be one of the sludgers that Toyota produced.

Easiest solution would be to take it to a scrap yard and get what you can and go get a new vehicle.

I hope you didnt get something somebody was using for a “Ricer”,check around you might even be able to shoehorn an upgrade engine in there if the computer will work,shame on someone ,if they knowingly sold you a “Joner” like that -Kevin

First, remove the valve cover and check to see that the oil drain back holes in the head are open so that oil drains back into the pan ok. If not, use a screw drive to open them up. When that issue is solved, get some “5 minute oil flush” and follow direction on the can, except run it for 20 minutes instead of 5.

Another trick that might work. Fill the engine up with kerosene, I mean all the way up until it reaches the top of the dip stick tube. Let it sit overnight, then drain it out and refill with the normal amount of oil. But make sure the oil drain back holes are clear first. This is a longshot.

Another little trick…Bring the engine to TDC (top dead center) by watching the timing marks on the front pully of the engine. Then rotate (by hand) the engine 1/4 turn more. This will bring all the pistons to mid-stroke in their bores. remove the spark plugs and divide up a can of BG formula 44 or Sea-foam equally and pour it into the cylinders. This will flood the gummed up rings with these powerful cleaners. let it stand overnight, crank the engine with the plugs out to expel the solvents, replace the plugs and hope for the best…