Toyota Rav 2007 Oil Burning

My 2007 is burning oil & since it is under warranty the dealer is rebuilding the engine. Should I be concerned that this car is a lemon & other things will fail? Someone suggested that I ask for an extended warranty from the dealer. Thoughts?

Some more info would help.
Did you buy this vehicle brand new? As in 4 or 5 miles brand new or was it a dealer demo, lease return, etc.?
How many miles on it?

Lastly, they state they are “rebuilding” this engine and not replacing it?
Is this a claimed factory authorized warranty repair?

You can ask for exteneded warranty and see what transpires. In reality Toyota owes you nothing but fixed vehicle according to warranty.

I seriously doubt your vehicle is a lemon due to one repair albiet a major one,

I would be interested in answers from other posters on this. I would have assumed that the dealers typically put in an engine out of a crate rather then rebuild it themselves. Does anyone have knowledge about how this is typically done? I suspect in this case that something less than a rebuild is being done.

Back in the early '70s, I know that Datsun (now Nissan) re-ringed some 240Z’s for excessive oil consumption, and likewise in mid or late '70s Toyota re-ringed quite a few FJ’s also. Datsun told us that the ring gaps had been oriented (no pun intended) all the same. Toyota said their ring gaps were too large. That was 30 and more years ago. Those old engines were simple compared to some of today’s. So I’m curious–do they put in a crate engine these days for excess oil consumption?

Good question, seeing as how manufacturers claim burning a quart of engine oil every 1k miles is ‘normal’.

I don’t believe that for one second. I can honestly say that NONE of the vehicles I’ve owned ever burned oil between changes (3k miles). The majority being domestic.

The word ‘rebuilding’ they refer to would probably be ‘replacing a short block’, but not sure any local dealer do better job than factory do.

Not only the specific application you mentioned but all of L engines consumes horrible amount of oil. If I remember correctly, they are mimicked version of Mercedes and apparently the consumption issues was carried from the original design/packaging.

As for consumption rate, modern engines are designed to operate at higher temperature than before for better thermal efficiency and fuel economy. It depends on the oil spec though it’s safe to say that they tend to consume more oil so ‘burning a quart of engine oil every 1K’ is achievable in certain conditions. (Are you talking about VW Golfs?)

Having been involved in a number of warranty engine repairs personally, it would help if Marisa would provide some info. There is a reason for the questions I asked. If a legitimate factory warranty is paying for this then someone at Toyota Motor Co. is going to be involved with a pre-approval of this rebuild, overhaul, or engine replacement and they’re also going to be wanting to know why this problem occurred.

THE FACTORY WILL ONLY REPLACE THE PART THAT IS BAD. IF AN OIL RING ON PISTON THATS WHAT YOU GET NOT A COMPLETE REBUILD. THE OLD MAINS AND ROD BEARINGS ARE PUT BACK IN REMEMBER THEY SAVE ON COST. YOU WILL GET THE SAME ANTIFREEZE BACK. THEY MIGHT CHARGE FOR ANTIFREEZE BUT THATS FOR THE EXTRA TO FILL IT UP. DO NOT THINK YOU GET ALL NEW THINGS. THEY SHOULD SAY REPAIRED NOT REBUILD.THE FACTORY ONLY PAYS THE SHOP ABOUT WHAT YOU PAY AS A PAYING CUSTOMER. LIKE HEAD GASKETS. WARR PAY TO SHOP 3HRS YOU WOULD PAY 6 HOURS. THINK ABOUT THIS IF IT REALY TAKES 3HS WHY DO YOU PAY 6HRS. GOT YOU. NOT TO PUT DOWN DEALERS. i FOUND OUT THEY ARE BETTER THEN PEP—. WHO AFTER GIVING A PRICE TO PEPLACE MY PLUGS AND COILS
THEY ADDED $75.00 LABOR FOR REMOVING AIRFILTER TO GET TO THEM ALSO FOR DOGHOUSE. WHICH i HAD TAKEN OFF MYSELF. THEY ALSO CHARED MORE THE FIRST
PLUG AND COIL THEN THE OTHER 7 WHY GOD ONLY KNOW. tHE SERVICE PEOPLE MUST HAVE BEEN RETIRED LAWYERS THE TWISTED TALK THEY GAVE ME.