I don’t see that spec in the torque spec data I normally use either. I see values on the internet in the 25 ft-lb range for the Corolla in general, matching up with Nevada’s estimate above. I don’t see anything though for your specific make/model, which I presume is Corolla derived.
Consider that the manufacturer has a conflict of interest for this spec. They’d rather error on the side of too tight than too loose. After all, loss of engine oil is a much worse problem to deal with compared to having to fix the threads in the oil pan or drain plug or replace the oil pan. I’m a diy’er and have changed the oil in my driveway for my cars for years. For my own Corolla, just a few years newer than yours, I can tell you how I do it, never had a problem damaging the threads on the drain plug or oil pan.
First off – I think this is very important to prevent thread damage and leaks – I always use a new gasket. When tightening the oil drain plug I use a 12 inch handle ratchet/socket and hold it with one hand about 6 inches from the plug and tighten it just so it starts to snug up, then another 1/8 of a turn. I’d guess about 15-20 foot pounds.
I usually buy my drain plug gaskets at Toyota, in a batch of 10. If I discover no washers are left in the middle of an oil change, I don’t drive to Toyota in the other car to buy some new ones. Instead --now I’m not recommending this mind you – I’ll make my own appropriately sized gasket from 3 mm thick neoprene gasket material I keep on hand.
And I carefully clean the area off, then visually check for leaks from the oil filter and drain plug after doing an oil change, both at idle rpm then at higher rpms.