The C7 Corvette is split that way. Engine in front and a transaxle in back making the weight pretty much a 50/50 weight distribution. But a Vette isn’t a great every day USE vehicle. Although when I retire next year I’m going to get one.
Yes, but premium brand replacement tires (Bridgestone, Michelin, Goodyear, Continental, Sumitomo) are better quality and what I get. I don’t really go by the plaque on the door, thank you. Automakers know their autos, tire makers know their tires.
You really have a chip on your shoulder about me, don’t you? Why is that?
You mean you go by the number on the tire? That’s wrong.
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The plaque on the door jam is what every tire shop I have been to uses . If you don’t want to use it then go a head but don’t tell other people to ignore it .
Well, this is why I value the tire manufacturer’s inflation number rather than the auto manufacturer’s. I used to know those of the tire company I worked for, but that’s been a while now, and the product line has changed. While I occasionally talk with engineers I know, this issue just hasn’t come up. My general advice is to work toward the upper end of the manufacturer’s numbers (around 90%) and check for proper deflection on the sidewall (which the tire maker can give advice on).
Not in my book. I worked in the industry, and one of my relatives advanced to be selected VP of research and technology (but died of a heart attack he got on the company jet). How’s that grab you?
No authority on tires recommends using the sidewall pressure instead of that recommended by the carmaker.
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Does anybody remember the Ford Explorer fiasco with the Firestone tires? Ford tried to fix a handling problem by playing with tire pressures (something like a 10 psi difference) and Firestone compounded the problem by offering a tire susceptible to tread separation exacerbated by the heat generated by the lower pressure in the front tires. It crippled both companies with law suits and finds, both being found at fault. Since that time, every time I look at a new car I take note at the mfgr’s recommend pressures to see how close they are.
Yeah, that’s absolutely wrong. Tire makers make tires only. They have no idea what model of car a tire they make will go on (when it comes to replacement tires). There can be a dozen different models that use a certain size tire. Each of these vehicles will be a different size, have a different total weight different weight distribution, different drivetrains, etc. The car maker on the other hand is well aware of these differences and will spec the best tire pressure for the vehicle (which will involve some trade-offs). Tire sizes are standardized ( 245/45/R17 for example will be basically the same size no matter who makes it), the car makers know this. The pressure they call for will work across the board.
The tire pressue stated on the tire itself is more for the structural safety of the tire itself, and it’s carrying capacity, it has nothing to do what the actual correct tire pressure is.
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Me thinks it is ( leave me alone ) . You are just going to spout what you are posting and you will get feed back .
You would be surprised how much the tire maker knows about and influences the auto maker’s suspension design. Please don’t call me wrong, and I will not make comments based on inside knowledge.
I apologize for comments I have made on this subject which are based on insider information and are not welcome here. I will refrain from making similar remarks, but I cannot say I am wrong about my practices. Tire design and the auto/tire industry is more complex than many are aware, but let’s leave it at that. I miss working in the industry, I am an old man with stories I like to tell, and I am sorry they are not welcome in this venue. I guess I just need to hang out with old tire engineers more.
No, I have learned my lesson. I miss talking tires and working with tires, but this is not the place. Nothing I have said is wrong, and nothing dangerous. If you are in the industry and talk tire technology all the time, you do learn what is fact and what is regulatory aggravation. I did overstep on this issue, because I know things not in the public domain about this issue which has made me skeptical about those plaque numbers, I obviously painted myself in a corner. I will give you a freebie, though. Not all tire makers are held to the same standards of quality by the auto makers. I got tires free or at close to no cost, but I got rid of OE tires as quickly as I could. Alas! I’d tell you more, but my info is dated now. I am miffed that you told me I was wrong when I was not, but I admit I should not have given advice on this topic. There are other stories besides the Ford Explorer fiasco about bad door plaque codes (and more recent), but that one is in the public domain. It is a study in what can go wrong.
You don’t know simple physics. Tire pressure is a direct ratio of tire weight to area footprint of tires.
Tired Weight: Math & Mechanics Science Activity | Exploratorium Teacher Institute Project
I’ve seen the same tire and tire size used on different vehicles with a weight difference of over 1,000 lbs. You would NOT use the same tire pressure for both vehicles. The lighter vehicle would have less tire pressure.
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Actually, I know all of that. I am not sure I would use the same tire on each vehicle, but it depends on the application. But let’s not argue the point. I realize I have a different mindset than those here. I’m not going to fight it.
Thank you for your comment. Actually, with all due respect, I do know some. Right now, I wish I could say that was not true though.
During the last 15 years automobile manufactures have been increasing the tire inflation pressures on the same vehicles over the years and sometimes the same tire size. Common tire pressure for sedans were 30 PSI, now increased to 35-36 PSI. This is not a compromise in safety, this improves fuel economy.
There have been a number of office workers who attacked Robert Gift for increasing the tire inflation pressure on his blood transfer emergency vehicle, ignoring the fact that the owners manual indicates to do so.
For example, a Toyota Camry advising to operate at 41 PSI cold for high speed driving.
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Agree completely. Th´car,akers recommendation for normal driving is their opinion for the best combination of safety, fuel economy, ride and handling for that vehicle and its intended use.
I assume most people know rhat for higher speeds than normal, more pressure reduces heat which can damage a tire.
The pressdure on the sidewall is the tires maximum safe pressure and should never be exceeded. It is NOT the tire makers recommended tire pressure for every vehicle, they don’t do that.
If you want to hyppermile, use the max tire pressure on the sidewall. You may get a really bad ride though. When I was a young aggressive driver I always had the max pressure in my tires, I figured the seat cushions provided enough “ride”
I used to work for a trucking company that used to load 3 times the legal limit on theit trailers. Their trailers had double the number of stiffening ribs and deeper frames than standard . The dual wheels had 6" spacers between them rather than 4.5 and the tires were 11 x 22 when everyone else at the time were using 10 x 20. We used nothing but Michelin radials all around except on the steer tires because we had no power steering. There was a lot of air pressure in those tires. If you got a puncture in one of those tires there was a very brief period of smoke just before the tire exploded.
It was sometimes hard to get one of those loads rolling on asphalt roads until you got over the standing wave induced in the pavement in front of the wheels.
Allow me to clear the air:
On the sidewall are inflation pressures. None of them are recommendations. In fact, if you ask the tire makers what pressure to use, they will point to the vehicle tire placard, which is required on every car sold in the US.
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When it comes to OEM tires, that would be correct (and it’s not some kind of industry secret or anything). Tire manufactures do sometimes makes tires to meet the specs that auto manufactures ask for, whether it be low rolling resistance for Tesla or a specific compound for exotics or just cheaper versions of tires they make for an auto manufacturer to hit production cost numbers. That’s all true. However the title of this post would suggest that’s not what we’re talking about here. In context to replacement tires, I stand by my original comment.