This is not a big deal, but I’m wondering what the reasoning is for this…
Why is it that every time I buy new tires, the installer doesn’t inflate them to the recommended level for the vehicle they’ve put them on?
They should at least tell you that you may need to adjust them.
For example, I bought 4 new tires yesterday for my Tundra and checked the pressure this morning before driving it. All four tires were inflated to 35 psi.
The recommended level is 26 psi in front and 29 psi for the rear tires.
Just curious.
Tire busters don’t get paid enough to worry about stuff like that. It’s not in their job description. 35psi is “universal” passenger car tire pressure.
"The recommended level is 26 psi in front and 29 psi for the rear tires."
For what load? What is your load? Those pressures seem like soft, mushy, pressures for passenger cars. Is the Tundra a car or a truck?
Tire busters don’t get paid enough to worry about stuff like that.
I have to agree with you on that one. However I have found one tyre outlet that not only gets the pressure right, but they bring out a real torque wrench and properly torque the wheels back on. The proper torque and tyre pressure is printed out on the work order.
Their prices are not bad so they get all my tyre business.Same here, Joseph. My favorite independent tire store sets the pressures correctly and uses a torque wrench for final tightening of the lug nuts. Those are two of the reasons I keep going back.
The Toyota Tundra is a truck. The psi levels of 26 & 29 are listed inside the driver side door as I assume they are on all automobiles. It doesn’t list different recommended pressure for different load levels.
I’m trusting that the psi shown is right for anything other than ‘abnormal’ use, and unless I were to use my truck for hauling heavy loads, the recommended tire pressure is best for my truck.
Yes, it does happen too much. My wife’s car recently had new tires put on and they sent her home with the tires ten pounds too low. It’s a good thing I always double-check tire pressures, oil levels, and things like that right after any service.
But, hey, if this place wants to give me the impression that they’re careless with their work and that I should take my business elsewhere next time, the message came across clearly!
One of the many reasons why I like Costco’s tire centers is that they hand torque your lug nuts–to the exact factory specs–and they set the tire pressures to the exact factory specs.
I just got 4 new tires on my 1998 Buick Regal LS. The tire store is a local chain. They used the pressure on the door. We discussed whether it needed alignment. I told them that the car shudders when the brakes are pressed at high speed, and that it was only felt in the pedal. Their response was that it is warped rear rotors and that it is not worth worrying about at this point. They gave up $100 or more in immediate business. But they earned the privilege of replacing the tires on my other 3 cars.
So how long are you going to let the rotors go?
As he is a top 20 contributor, it could take a while. I spent too much time writing replies when I top twentied. It won’t happen again, I promise.
I just replaced them about a year ago. The car doesn’t get driven much, and the pulsation is very slight. I’m in no hurry.
I have the same in my Highlander, but I don’t think mine is warpage. I don’t drive much on the highway, just local easy driving and stopping (I get 70K out of front brakes!) But when ON the highway and stopping hard I get a little pulsing on the first stop. Then I learned a secret of burning of resins that transfer and build up on the pad/rotor interface. Had this with my sport car too, Acura NSX, that hardly got driven. A good high speed stop every now and then burns it off and doesn’t show up again for a good while…just a thought MAKE SURE NOT in front of unsuspecting car when you brake!!!