My tire were rotated a few weeks ago and were making a rotational sound before they were rotated. Once rotated, they are still making the sound. I have a FWD and the noisy tires are on the front. The inside edge is a little more worn, but the next tread line on the inside has light dips in the tire all the way around. I dont feel or see any from the center to the outer edge. What could cause this? Will it hurt to drive on them a few more days? They are Yokohama Avid Ascend tires and only have 20,000 miles on them. Also, besides the tire noise, there is no vibration or alignment pull.
Worn out struts is the #1 cause for cupped tires.
Tester
You could drive with the noisy tires on the front until they are worn smooth again. Sounds like they were on the rear too long and a wear pattern developed, how often do you have the tires rotated?
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They were bought new and at 5000 miles they were rotated. But it was about 12000 the second rotation. Now, I am about 2000 miles on the 3rd rotation.
Cupping and feather are 2 different things. Cupping is generally caused by bad struts or shocks and feather edging due to an alignment problems.
My gut feeling is this is an alignment issue due to due to excessive toe-out based on the inside edge comment so maybe it needs to go on the alignment rack. The fact the car does not pull left or right does not mean the alignment is correct.
At this point it’s more of an irritation than a safety factor I would say but I’d have to do something about it if the car were mine as I hate tire noises, vibrations, or pulls.
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Cupping and feather are 2 different things.
The inner edge of the tire seems consistently just a little more worn, but the next section of tread inward seems to have a slight dip every 8-10 inches. But only the that line of tread. So do you think its cupping or feathering?
Get an alignment. Your tire wear is caused by misalignment.
Get the printouts. The alignment tech should hand you the before and after values. Look for anything red! Tell them you want them BEFORE you give them the keys!
Tell them you are willing to pay for any additional parts needed to make the alignment right. Sometimes camber plates, eccentric bolts, etc. are needed, but many alignment techs are reluctant to tell customers upfront that these parts may be needed - some don’t install these parts at all and leave the alignment out of spec!
My experience is that the alignment tolerances are too wide - by half. For good tire wear, the alignment needs to be within the inner half of the spec range.
My experience also says that any camber over 1° tends towards wear issues. Excessive camber should be taken out (Yes, I think the spec is wrong!)
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