Several of the above posts don’t take into account two essential facts about the situation the OP has to deal with. One is, as the OP stated, the state law in California REQUIRES chains in certain conditions, and those conditions occur frequently every year at the elevation the OP has to traverse. And yes, this is enforced fiercely! The signage for this is elaborate and specific, depending on variable current conditions: snow tires OK, or “chains required / four wheel drive with snowtires ok”, or chains reqd no exceptions" and these are changed repeatedly during the progress of each storm. It’s vastly different than a 10 degree day in less mountainous but much colder regions.
The other very significant fact is that the snow in California is radically different than in the northeast, or central states due to temperatures usually just barely below freezing during storms, thus very high moisture content, and also by the change in elevation. The OP states living in an area mostly free from snow, so in a storm, he/she may leave home in rain that gradually turns to slippery slush to wet heavy snow, easily changing significantly in a mile or two. In the flatter terrain, these kinds of patterns may not exist. They do here. For that heavy and slippery wet snow, chains are the only option sometimes, though studded snowtires and four wheel drive are probably next best. But as I have said, there are times when the California Highway Patrol chain control sign reads: “chains, no exceptions”. Two wheel drive with snow tires is just not good enough here.
Yes also to extra traction up front…studs, cables, or chains on the front can be a vital safety factor giving dramatically better traction for STOPPING and even for steering…depending on the type of chains…especially for clumsy larger 2wd vehicles.
How do I know? 8 years living/working in Yosemite National Park, and being required by employer to be at work - no excuses. Often we would wake up at 2000 feet in a rain storm and need to be at 6200 feet by 8 am. I’ve made that drive many times, once in a raging storm before the plows had cleared the road. At 4000 feet we chained up my little Opel Manta (2 wheel drive), four outdoor education instructors with overnight winter gear, and broke trail all the way to 6200, snow about as deep as the clearance on the car. When we reached our destination and I opened my door, the bottom of the door grazed the top of the snow. But we made it to work on time! Four days later, it was almost impossible to locate my bright red car in the 3+ feet of snow we’d gotten. But it was GREAT FUN!
RJS395: As you have learned, you WILL need chains at times to get to work. It’s a pain, but made easier with the practice that someone above has suggested…yes, do get a friend to show you if you feel you need it. A few other things will help make it a little less onerous: a cheap rainjacket (not your expensive ski gear), a backpacking type foam pad to lie on under the car, flashlight for times when you need to chain up or remove chains in the dark, fingerless gloves…that is, with no fingertips…you’ve probably seen them or own some already, it’s really difficult to manage some of the connectors with gloved hands, and bare hands are much worse than bare fingertips, you might even want safety glasses. And one key installation technique is to be sure the chains are as tight as you can possibly get them. Here’s the trick: after you connect the chains on the inside and outside of each wheel as tightly as you can, but before you attach the tensioners (they may be black rubber loops with metal hooks) roll the car forward or back a ways, at least 20 feet, ideally more. That will even out the spacing, creating slack…then move the chain hooks to get the chains tighter inside and out, and THEN attach the stretchy tensioners. That makes a huge difference: it minimizes noise and tire wear, increases traction, protects the car sheetmetal and in some cases the suspension parts, and probably minimizes the chance that the chains will get disconnected and fly off wrapping around axles, shocks, etc.
Thanks to all who provided me with suggestions/insight…I will say that WesternRoadtripper gave me some great insight. I’ve asked around here in town and the consensus is that I should go with some high-end cables or chains and drive slow. I tried to explain that buying snow tires is simply not feasible for me, and the winter conditions out here are quite different than conditions in the east. Once again, I live in a town that is low in elevation (low for western states standards), sees 300+ days of sunshine per year on average and maybe sees 1-4 days every year where maybe 1-3 inches of snow hangs around for a day or more. Less than one hour away is a ski-resort town that saw 668+ inches of snow last winter.
I have generated quite the debate here, and what I am taking away from this is to assess what will work best for me, given my current financial situation (recent college grad = pretty damn poor right now), current vehicle and frequency of trips during inclement weather. I have received a wide range of responses, but I have made my decision. Yes, I am a greenhorn, but I have no plans to relocate to the flatlands any time soon… so I shall learn from experience.
RJS395: You’re quite welcome, glad to be able to help you with this. If you live near a town with a auto salvage yard, you might even find those chains used for cheap, but be sure to check the size because fit is critical. If solid metal type, look carefully at the links to see if they are worn down …that happens from driving on bare pavement which is inevitable, avoid any that seem worn too much.
I’m hunching you live near Reno or Carson City. If so, make sure to check out the outlet store Sierra Trading Post for great discounts on outdoor gear, 6139 S. Virginia Street. www.sierratradingpost.com. Good luck, you’ll do fine! Hope you enjoy the skiing!!
“The other very significant fact is that the snow in California is radically different than in the northeast, or central states due to temperatures usually just barely below freezing during storms, thus very high moisture content, and also by the change in elevation”
I have also lived in California and driven in snow out there, its not different as far as driving is concerned. Once the snow is driven over and packed down to the pavement, its exactly the same as snow in Vermont, Michigan, Virginia or Tennessee. The mountains are a bit steeper and a whole lot higher though.
No matter where you live, it rarely snows outside of a band of temperatures from +10 to +30F.
I was out there a couple of years ago visiting relatives when I got caught in a blizzard up in the mountains west of Mojave. I got passed by a Honda Civic and a Toyota 4 Runner like I (and the rest of the drivers around me) didn’t know how to drive in snow. About two miles later, we all crawled by them as they had managed to run into each other.
But I’ve seen the same thing everywhere I have lived and driven. There is always someone who thinks they are better drivers than the rest of us and can “handle” the snow and ice.
What people don’t understand about California is how DIFFERENT the place is ecologically and climatologically due to topography. The Sierra Nevada has extreme differences from other parts of the state. Nevada is a desert because wet Pacific storms get blocked by the Sierra, dumping massive amounts of moisture above 4000 feet. Snow line is often around 3000 feet so you drive from rain into slush into heavy wet snow.
Diversity is the key point: CA has the renowned deserts including Death Valley, and soggy rainforests on the north coast. Sierra snow is WET WET WET, and that makes it dense, heavy, uncompressible, slippery like you would not believe.
“Once the snow is driven over and packed down to the pavement,”
To often, this simply is not the reality here for several reasons. First, it’s quite possible nobody had driven through before you. Second, the snow rarely packs down in the way you imply because of the water content, and it often doesn’t get hard as it can elsewhere, it remains in a plastic condition but is so dense it can float tires off the pavement too. Also, the snow here falls so fast at times that in a few minutes after a plow has passed it’s like starting over, I’m not kidding. Even minor grades can be a barrier, even if you can still see the asphalt through the light new snow, plus slush, plus fluid water.
One thing you mentioned which was right on was the drivers…they’re nuts, just like you described. Few understand that four wheel drive ONLY gives you traction for getting into motion when stopped or going slowly, it does NOTHING to help you stop, turn, or avoid sliding sideways. One benefit of using chains is it slows the cars down just because the noise and bumping is so annoying.
Westernroadtripper…“four wheel drive only gives you traction for getting into motion…does nothing to help you stop or turn”
Please forgive the rant…
This has become the mantra of those who don’t own or know how to drive a 4 wd or awd car or truck in snow and fail to run winter tires. It absolutely defys logic. Every time this statement is made, even by reputable publications like CR, it only applies when the vehicle is not under power. It assumes that every time you need to turn a car in slippery conditions, you ease off the accelerator and coast. Then and only then is 2wd equal to turning with 4 wd in snow and icy conditions. And, in identical cars the awd added weight may even be a slight disadvantage. But…
Think of climbing a hill under power which you must and having to make a corner or turn into a drive way, Think of passing some one. Think of merging into traffic on a snow covered intersection or on ramp with traffic. Think of all the times you have have the power on in snow and still must turn. Think of mountain climbing ! Awd and 4 wd help unload the front wheels which a fwd car can’t do, by distributing the acceleration forces over both axles. By lessoning the chances of the front wheels slipping, they retain their cornering traction. In addition, 4 wd and awd can effectively engine brake going down hill in all but the slipperiest ice conditions with this same advantage.
Remember too, when we even admit that 4 wd helps you accelerate which it does even with less effective tires then 2 wd. , you introduce a safety feature. The ability to accelerate when required , or even get moving is in deed a safety feature.
My personal favorite safety advantage I can recall, ocurred while climbing a snow covered hill as we suddenly confronted a 2wd car sliding backwards toward us. We were able to continue our climb while avoiding a collision with our awd car. I guess the alternative was to stop, pretend we couldn’t turn and climb and slide down the hill with the other car. Btw, both we and the 2wd car had winter tires.
Welcome to the world of internet discussion groups. It’s been like that since they were invented - and it’s a reflection of the fact that folks don’t always agree on things!
But you recieved a reasonable answer - and part of how that came about is because of these discussions.