Timing belt is tight

Maintenance/Repairs
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21

2cm is a lot of difference, that is over a half inch. I think you should verify that the new belt is the right one.

Also look again at @Tester’s diagram. In the the tensioner wheel, you see two pin holes. Your’s may only have one. You turn the tensioner CCW against the spring until one of the pin holes lines up with a hole in the block and stick a pin in it (pin as in a #1 phillips or similar. This holds the tensioner back far enough to get te belt on.

As @Tester said, loop the belt over the cam gear, then the oil pump, pull on the belt as you slip it over crank gear so that there is no slack between the cam,oil and crank pulleys and all the timing marks line up. Then it goes over the tensioner and release the tensioner by pulling the pin.

Most important, check the timing marks again. Then tighten the tensioner and check the timing marks again. Check them one more time before you put the covers back.

22

Ok this is mower stuff but belt caution related. I replaced the belts on my mower with after market from Menards. The thing wouldn’t move. So I bought the $30 oem belts instead of the after market $7 belts. I used a tape measure to compare them. They were anywhere from 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch longer and that was enough to screw up the drive system. I don’t know how you would compare an old stretched belt with a new one without the actual specs, but I would never buy aftermarket for a critical and time consuming part.

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is this good timing? As you could tell the cam timing is a little off

24

I have always looked at it this way, look at the mark and imagine the gear being one tooth either way, if it is way off by moving it one tooth advanced or retarded then you are good…

I will also, if I can’t look straight on at it, use a mirror to get a better view, but it looks like you can see yours pretty good and they both look good… I always rotate the engine to make sure the timing marks still line up after setting and to make sure the belt is tight enough…

25

Did you replace the balance shaft belt also???

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26

Yes ,weird that it took me like 10 min to time it and tension it yet the timing belt took me a whole day

27

It only pays about 2.8 hours… Next time will go faster…

28

Fits the old saying- you can do 90% of the work in 10% of the time. The remaining 10% takes 90% of the time… :rofl:

29

So is it done? Is it running yet?

30

I had to do homework and have school; I’ll finish it by the end of the day; I’ll run it with out putting anything just to check and plus I’m scared to turn it on because its an interference engine

32

My bad lol

34

Does it sound like bend valves; I haven’t put anything just timing belt; it did had valve tick before.

35

Why did you replace the timing belt in thee 1st place?? maintenance or broke??

36

Maintenance; was trying to prevent bend valves in the first place; so does it sound like bent valves

37

sounds like you need valve lash adjustment

39

In you opinion it doesn’t sound like bend valves? And old Mitsubishi haves this common problem due to them using hydraulic lifters

40

I do not think the valves are bent, but hard to here in the video.
this video has a clip of what your engine probably sounds like and explains the tick. I believe it is the same engine as yours, it’s an eclipse spyder in the video. 4g64 but do not know the year. but you get the general idea of the sound and potential problem.

Eclipse Spyder 4g64 Valve Tick Fixed - YouTube

41

Well that’s a relief; maybe your rigth and I’m overreacting lol well thanks!

42

It sound pretty smooth, but maybe valve tick like W-W stated… If you have bent valves you wouldn’t have compression in that cylinder (or very low) and it would have a bad miss, back firing, shaking, hard to start and or lack of power…

43

Nice! Well thanks for helping through out the timing job

1 Like