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I haven’t found the cause of the problem but the symptoms describe a problem that has a name… driveline lash. My next plan of action is to raise one front tire at a time and rotate it back and forth to see if I can locate the loosness.
Learned something new. The thunk only happens in overdrive. If I switch off the overdrive and maintain the same speed, and let off the gas pedal and then re-apply, the thunk does not happen. This strongly suggests that the problem is in the transmission.
Hi there,
I’m just found this thread last night. Did you ever figure out what was happening with your car? I have the exact same symptoms going on in my Outback. Clank when I accelerate after cruising above 40mph. No clank from stop. I just had one of the catalytic converters removed (hopefully temporary until I get some cash and figure out what is causing them to fail) and the clanking has gotten substantially louder and seemingly more frequent.
The OP has a 2005 front wheel drive V-6 Ford Escape. You apparently own an Outback (presumably with AWD and an H-4 engine) of an unknown model year and unknown odometer mileage. The probability of the repair solution for his vehicle being similar to the repair solution for your totally different vehicle is… unlikely.
You should begin your own thread, making sure to include the model year, engine type, transmission type, odometer mileage, and all repairs that have been attempted so far, if you want to get suggestions that are truly helpful.
Hey Jack Im experiencing a similar issue on a 03’ Ranger, rear-wheel drive, 3.0 v6
Hoping you might have some further updates on this so I can diagnose and fix it. or perhaps anyone else on this thread.
Suggest you start a new thread and tell us more about your Ranger. My guess, without more information, is drive shaft universal joints and/or rear differential ring and pinion wear.
4 Likes
@Purebred, I did a follow-up diagnostic and your “guess” was right on:
Finding:
U-JOINT HAS MOVEMENT/ PLAY - RECOMMEND NEW U-JOINT FROM TRANSMISSION TO REAR AXLE - THIS IS CAUSING THE CLANKING SOUND WHEN GOING FROM A COAST TO ACCELERATION.
3 Likes
I own a Ford truck, so I’ve been there, done that. Suggest as part of the job to ask your shop to carefully inspect all of the driveshaft’s u-joints, replace any that are “iffy”, and fresh lube for the rest. Much easier to do a thorough job when the driveshaft is on the bench. Make sure they get all the lube points, esp if your driveshaft has any Double Cardan joints. Also, if this is a two piece driveshaft, make sure they clean & relube where the two halves slip together.
Years ago after getting tired of replacing u-joints, I decided to do an experiment & lube my truck’s driveshaft every 1000-1500 miles to see if that had effect on the u-joint failure rate. Since then I’ve never had to replace any failed u-joints.
@George_San_Jose1
Hey George, thanks for the feedback! ill be doing this work myself, but I had the truck in the shop as a new purchase inspection. luckily I don’t think my truck has any double joints. as a heads up to those reading this keep the comments coming I bought this truck as a bit of a hobby and to learn how to work on cars. here is my list of to dos
rear wheel cylinders
front breaks, calipers, rotor and pads,
upper and lower control arms
New shocks/structs front and rear
replace u -oint
replace blower motor resistor
bleed and replenish brake fluids
if you feel like there is something that might be a critical component to review please let me know and ill add it to the list!
2003 ford ranger edge rear wheel drive 90,000 miles
That looks to be an excellent “get-started” to-do list you’ve made. You might consider adding these
- flush and replace the engine coolant (if more than 2-3 years old or unknown age)
- when rear drum is removed for replacing the wheel cylinders, at least lube the rear drum-shoe friction points, if not replacing the shoes, check the springs too for signs of cracks forming
- good opportunity to deglaze the rear drum surfaces too, cross hatch pattern with some 160 grit al-o2 sandpaper. Might want to also remove, clean and lube the adjuster mechanism.
- new control arm bushings if in doubt, check for unwanted play elsewhere in suspension system
- replace fuel filter, engine air filter, & spark-plugs if age unknown
- If configured w/re-packable front wheel bearings, good time for that.