The real oil seal deal synthetic

just one more question I’m getting Like Colombo TV show.
so if the sludge around the seals gets cleaned up and the seal rejuvenating additives takes care of any leaks now where does this extra sludge go into the other parts of the engine?

The filter. Actually the sludge rarely comes off in chunks. Mostly it just dissolves in the oil, turning it darker. If you are using synthetic oil to clean up a sludged engine, you should change the oil frequently until the engine is clean. But if there are any chunks, the filter will capture them.

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It first goes to the oil pump pick-up screen, and then to the filter.

Tester

There may be some concern about this. No so much that synthetic oil might damage a seal, but that if the seal is already damaged it might clean up some gunk that was otherwise plugging a leak. It seems we don’t hear about this problem much these days, so maybe the problem is resolved for the most part now. Anyway, here’s a link that might be informative, fyi

“A few final concerns involve higher mileage vehicles that have not been well maintained. Such engines are prone to oil leakage. In some cases, the build up in the crankcase may be disguising leaks. Synthetic oil is an excellent cleaner. It will go to work cleaning any build up. This can reveal oil leaks that did not show up prior to the use of synthetic oil.”

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/122

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html

Tester

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Thanks make sense .thank you

THAT IS A GREAT ARTICLE . AND THOSE PHOTOS SHOW REAL neglected no oil change situations. .

very good information on the oil ,Thank you

I guess oil is as contrary as water, does the opposite of what you wish. Had a friend his waterbed started leaking and tried draining it until the floor drain plugged up

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:oncoming_automobile:

A couple of comments:

Why didn’t the manual describe the 0W20 oil as synthetic? It has to be, since extremely ow viscosity (0) at startup has to be synthetic. Maybe they just know it is always synthetic because of that.

I had the same engine in my 1998 Regal and used mineral oil for about 180,000 miles when we sold the car. I did not burn oil. I also changed the oil at 7000 mile intervals.

Just want to comment on the leakage issue. Years ago my grandson bought a '97 Dodge Ram pickup. It had a minor oil leak, leaving oil spots here an there on the driveway. He changed the oil using synthetic and the leak became quite a bit worse but after about month the leak stopped completely!

that’s a horror story that turned out to be good .I would like to hear stores like that

wow you went a little over the change limit 3,000 miles to 7,000 and still got 180,00 on conventional oil right

An outstanding link, Tester, and you have my sincere thanks for it. :stuck_out_tongue:

I wonder how many people would take better care of their vehicles if some of these photos were blown up and posted as wall decorations. It’s impossible to describe the consequences of neglect in words. These photos should be a wakeup call to many. I’ve never seen better photos of sludge.

A tip of the hat to you Tester.

No, I changed at the Buick recommended mileage. I drove almost all highway miles, definitely not severe service.

I also thank @Tester for that article. It’s absolutely astonishing that an engine could build up that much sludge in its first 8700 miles.

Based on an article I read recently this was a problem with Toyatas in their 4 cyl and 6 cyl. engines from 1997 to 2001. Anybody know what the cause was?

I found the below link that describes the cause.
http://yotarepair.com/Sludge_Zone.html

@the_same_mountainbik Another great article. Thanx.

Every time I tried synthetic in my old '70 and '80 cars, the oil sender would leak right through the side.

My later model cars have no problems at all, ever.