The past three weeks have been very discouraging watching my gas cage creep closer to empty faster by the day. A month ago I was averaging roughly 310 miles per tank and as of today, I am down to 200 miles per tank. There is absolutely no gas leak, and after my 2nd inspection today apparently nothing else. Fuel trims were checked and fine, no temperature coolant sensor problem, no check engine light, and no binding breaks. I had a theory that the calipers needed changing because the past 2 times I’ve gone hiking (driving up and back down santa monica mountains) I’ve driven home with a major squeak coming from the back right side, in addition to a burning rubber smell. You’d think the parking brake was stuck or something related but after a long drive today by the 2nd mechanic to inspect, a look under the lift, the brakes are totally fine, calipers included. PLEASE HELP!!! I can’t afford $70 fill ups that only last a week!
Have you checked tire pressures? One low tire can kill gas mileage and if underinflated enough that tire will run much hotter than normal and may give off a burning rubber smell.
I would have hoped this would be considered during the inspection but you never know.
Change the thermostat if it’s over 5 years old.
I guess I forgot to mention before that yes, the tire pressure is just fire in each tire…just yesterday the 2nd mechanic took a look and go figure, picked my car up last night and the squeak on the back right side is back and of course he claims he didn’t hear it! Not that I doubt him…I guess its just my luck that every time he’s driven a mile in it he hears nothing. The noise is a rolling squeak, that goes faster or slower in relation to how fast or slow I’m driving. A month ago I thought the noise might have been the Ujoint but its just fine. Theres a small squeak when turning/stopping, but for the most part the noise is like I said, worse after the parking brake has been on and I have been driving/parked on a hill.
Is there a way to test a thermostat to see if it’s bad? When plugged into the computer the engine and all the sensors read just fine…
You can remove it, put it in a pan of water with a thermometer, heat it and see if it opens at the specified temperature (probably ~190F).
Seems like more trouble than it’s worth for a part that’s under $10.