2000 miles ago I changed my 1999 Honda accord (current mi: 182,000+) with 10w-30 synthetic blend. Just recently I checked my oil level and it was slightly below the minimal mark. I have 2 questions: 1.) Does oil run out that much after consuming that much mileage? And second question, is it okay to top off the car with regular 10w-30 conventional oil mixed with the synthetic blend that I have in my cars engine? FYI, no major oil leaks were found or visible.
There is nothing unusual about an engine requiring oil between changes. Any major brand 10w-30 oil, synthetic, conventional or blend will be OK to add.
Get in the habit of checking the oil level every 500 miles, no matter what car or what kind of oil you use. Top off as needed.
Also, check on the oil filler cap or owners manual–your car may specify 5w-30.
On a car that old, it might be burning oil, but it’s more likely you have a leaking gasket or seal of some kind.
In my humble opinion, there is no reason to spend extra money on a synthetic blend. Just make sure the oil you use is the right type. I use store brand conventional oil in my 1998 Civic with 212,000 miles, and I change the oil every 5,000 miles.
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a quart of oil every 2000+/- miles on a car with 182,000 miles is a good sign that the engine is healty and if properly maintained has a long life ahead of it. It’s normal.
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chemically, synthetic oil, blend, and dino are all exactly the same. The only difference is that synthetic has more consistant sized molecules and fewer impurities. You can mix them and switch back and forth to your heart’s content. NOTE: should you replace this car at some point with a new one, check the owners’ manual to see if the new one REQUIRES synthetic. Many do.
Just out of curiousity…What would happen if you put conventional oil in a newer car that requires Synthetic Blend or Synthetic Oils? I have a 2010 and I’ve never used conventional oil don’t ever intend to but I was just wondering.
I can’t think of a single car that requires a synthetic blend. They either require full synthetic or they don’t.
If you put conventional oil or a synthetic blend in a car that requires synthetic oil, you will damage the turbo charger and possibly deal with sludge because of heat stress. It really depends on why the car requires synthetic oil.
Just pick an oil that meets or exceeds the specifications listed in the owner’s manual. If you have a gasoline car the specification should start with an “S” (spark) if diesel it should be a “C” Compression. followed by a number. Some cars may have additional specifications.
It is normal in a modern car to use some oil and need additional oil between changes. If it becomes excessive then then have it checked. Check the manual or the dealer for what might be excessive for your car.
Synthetic blends are a good compromise for a less costly oil that will allow starting at very low temperatures, or provide extra protection at high temperatures. I’ve used 0W30 synthetic blends for years in cars that DID NOT REQUIRE SYNTHETIC. As Whitey points out if the vehicle requires synthetic, such as many Europeans, use full synthtic.
I started using Shell “Syn-Arctic” 0w30 in the late 70s when I lived in the North. It was priced somewhere betwen regular mineral and full synthetic, and served me well.
It’ll be cheaper to make your own synthetic blend. Most of the synthetic blend’s I’ve seen are only 20% synthetic. So to give you the same mixture on a 5quart system…Use 4 quarts of regular…and 1 quart of 100% Synthetic…Should give you close to the blend of the synthetic blend oil you can buy…but cheaper.
Never thougth about this. (making your own syn blend). Are there other thoughts --from other people about this idea? I like it so far…
The Shell Syn-Arctic was 50% synthetic and 50% regular shell mineral motor oil. It sold for about $3.50 per quart at that time, while regular oil went for about $1.50 and synthetic was way up at around $6+ or so. It was a great hit with operators in cold climates who had to let their equipment sit outside overnight. In those days the manufacturers specified oil changes every 3000 miles or 3 months, so you could save quite a bit of money.
EXXON had, and still has a 0W30 Heavy Duty diesel oil for cold weather operation in such equipment as logging trucks
Since then the relative price of synthetic has come down and I use Mobil 1 most of the time when I need synthetic. It comes as a 0W40 or 5W50, among other weights.
What’s to think about? You can buy a synthetic blend and pay one price, or you can make your own synthetic blend, and maybe pay a little less. Not only might you pay less, but you can control the mix yourself. If you think your mix should be 50/50, you can make it 50/50 instead of wondering what the ratio is of the store-bought mix.
Of course, like I said, I think the whole idea of buying a synthetic blend is kind of silly. It is pure marketing. Either your car needs 100% synthetic oil, or it doesn’t. If you live in a really cold climate, it might make sense, but then again, so would full synthetic.
If spending extra money on oil makes you happy, who am I to question it? It makes the oil companies happy too that you are buying higher-priced oil than you really need, so everybody wins.
@ whitey
i agree with you. i only use dino oil. if my engine required it, i would use full synthetic.
it was just an interesting concept that has never occured to me. (for those that want semi syn) cool. i learned a lot today.
With my car, Synthetic Blend oil has been used on it since it rolled off the assembly line. The dealership was using the Kendall Brand “Liquid Titanium” 5w-30 synthetic blend when I used to take it there for service but since I moved to a rural area with no Nissan Dealership, I go to a local shop and they’ve used Castrol Syntec Blend 5w-30 on it. It’s a little cheaper than the Kendall Brand, works the same as far as I know.
Just because synthetic blend has been used since the car was new doesn’t mean you still have to use it. You can use full synthetic or even regular dyno. Does this car REQUIRE synthetic??
I’m not sure if it does require synthetic or not, next time I take my owners manual out, I’ll look it up. I briefly skimmed through it once and I saw that it takes 5w-30, I don’t remember whether it said use synthetic or not.
Seems to me a lot of new stuff is just about these companies profits. I’d go by the owners manual sure. Otherwise how can i tell if synthetic is better for my car or is just a waste of money? And I read yrs ago if the car is old and you use synthetic that could cause a leak.
I think all of the cars Ive owned the only engine problem Ive had besides a blown head gasket from overheating was oil leaks. So I dont know if a synthetic couldve helped that.
Otherwise how can i tell if synthetic is better for my car or is just a waste of money?
Definitely better…but the question is HOW MUCH better. Also have to consider where you live and what type of driving you do if it’s really going to benefit you.
And I read yrs ago if the car is old and you use synthetic that could cause a leak.
Urban legend…total cr*p.
For cars that do not REQUIRE synthetic, it is good to use it in EXTREME operating conditions, such as extreme cold, heat or trailer towing. Synthetic has great heat resistance and has superior film strength. It also flows at -50F in the 0W grades, making very cold starts feasible and reducing engine wear during warmup.
If you live in Seatlle and just drive to work and your car does not require synthetic, you may be wastign money.
Contrary to many myths, synthetic does not allow you to increase the oil change interval by 100%, just because you paid twice as much for it. The oil change interval is determined by the additive package, which is basically the same for synthetic and non- synthetic. “Synthetic” refers to the base stock, which is between 75% and 80% of the total volume.