Suspension brands

Depends on how long you are planning to keep your car. I would choose KYB for longetivity. Monroe quick struts is another good alternative if your budget is limited.

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The advantage of the complete strut with springs unit is all you have to do is remove the old one and install the new one. Doing it this way reduces the hazards of a diy’er working with the springs under tension. The disadvantage is that you are changing from the original springs, which you presumably know work well, to aftermarket springs, which may come with unintended and possibly adverse consequences. The original springs were carefully engineered and specified by the scientists who designed the car’s suspension system. They specify the metal alloy to use, the diameter of the rod, the inches per turn of the coil, the diameter of the coils, the heat treatment, and the profile of all that as you move from the top side of the spring to the bottom side. All to get the static and dynamic strut response tuned properly to the rest of the car. The parts place I use solves the diy’er spring safety problem. They will install a replacement shock absorber into the original spring/strut unit for a small fee.

I think you’re overanalyzing it

On my Corolla, the original springs broke . . . I heard a snap going over a bump, and that was it. There had been no advance warning.

I got out and looked, and it had broken near the end, so I drove right back home. Using the spare car, I headed over to napa and ordered a set of aftermarket front springs.

They worked just fine. No change in ride height or handling. I had that car for several years, after changing the springs, btw. The aftermarket springs lasted at least as long as the factory parts

Thank you everyone for chiming in. Things got really clear now. I ordered Gabriel Guardian Ready Mount, $300 for all.
I called up local Nissan to ask if they have readymount struts and they don’t have any. The guy was like, I will sell you the parts and you will have to assemble, which I can not do so Gabriel was the best choice.
The opinions vary a lot. Some praised Gabriel whereas few called them Walmart of Struts. But the seller claimed that they have a lifetime warranty. I don’t know if it will be honored but as long as I do open cut them open, they have the warranty, was the claim. Hoping the claim will be honored, it should work out well.

Ideally, I would like to take the car to the grave and I am doing all necessary replacements now. My budget is $1000 at this moment. I hope that there will be no more repair for another year or two. Should any expense arise that will cost me more than $1000, I will get rid of the car.

When to get rid of the car is a tricky business. I have never figured out how people decide that its time to get rid of it, but will of course post here if and when the time comes.

Thanks again, everyone.

They get rid of vehicles for many reasons ( way too many to list ) and those reasons don’t always apply to anyone else. Basically a person makes that decision on there own.

Did you pick up the rubbery bits too? They really do make a big difference, and they’re dirt cheap.

No, I did not. The customer service agent mentioned, all required stuff comes with it. Can you please link the thing you are talking about. I will surely buy that too.

Thanks in advance.

I don’t have access to the exploded view drawing for the Nissan, but here’s one for a Camry, just to show you an example. The Nissan should be very similar.

What I’d suggest is that you stop at a part store that supplies your local shops and ask them exactly what parts are the rubbery bits. They’ll be able to look over the drawing for your car’s suspension and show/tell you exactly what they are.

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Thank you. When you say rubbery bits, do you mean each and every rubbery part in the suspension system? I am rather novice in this business, hence asking.

Following is the diagram for front suspensions

and following is for the rear

Can you please tell the part number here? I just don’t want to make any mistake in this.

Thanks again.

I don’t see the damper for the bottom spring seat in the diagram. And I can’t tell if the upper mount 54320 contains the rubber isolator or it’s 54325. It will definitely include 54040 and 54052.

I recommend that you talk with the parts counter guy for guidance. He can better identify the parts in your assembly with rubber in them or made of rubber. These are what will isolate vibration. 54052 protects the damper’s shaft and seal from dirt, grime, and corrosion.

The rear assembly is what’s called a “coilover” rather than a strut. The difference is that a strut controls the movement geometries of the wheel, whereas a strut simply damps vertical movement. The work is largely the same except for those two bottom bolts
 generally very hard to remove without an impact wrench. As with the fronts, access the guidance of the parts guy. Again, I don’t see a bottom damper (it may not have one). But be sure the spring is properly oriented in the seat. The top mount, 55320, will contain a rubber damper and should be changed to control sound, but since it doesn’t control the hub’s movement others may disagree.

Thank you. I will wait till the order is delivered then go talk to the parts guy.
Will update to confirm what I find from the parts guy.