If the rest of the car is OK why not get a rebuilt or used VW engine for it. There are lots of companies out there who make all sort of engines for this model (by all sorts, I mean all different HP engines) and they sell from a short block which would use some of your good parts to a turn-key motor. How’s the rest of the car? Rocketman
Ok let me ask you guys. What if the timing is off? My problem seems to be that I’m not getting compression in the cylinders. Could that have anything to do with timing?
IGNITION timing has no bearing on compression. Now, crankshaft to camshaft timing brings up interesting possibilities. Twin, or double, cams…hmmmmm!
If the valves aren’t sealing (almost) perfectly, compression won’t build up.
Have you thought of taking some basic courses on automotive studies at a community college, or trade school?
Previously I mentioned how critical the cylinder to cylinder head fit is as these engines do not use head gaskets. A crummy fit will result in little to no compression.
Tight valves can also do it; especially in regards to the exhaust valves which on the air cools have a tendency to stretch quite a bit.
Lemme tell you what kind of car this is! this car has a mind of it’s own! as it turns out the valves were off, so i wasn’t getting compression. That should have been something i checked originally but i didn’t think they could be off that much.
now my problem is adjusting. does anyone know the proper procedure to do so?
Unbelievable…
My real question is do i do intake and exhaust valves for #1, then do both for #2? or is a intake for #1 exhaust for #2? that may be a dumb question, and i’m sorry if i offend anyone.
Rotate the engine until the distributor rotor points at No. 1 on the dist. cap. Remove the valve covers and adjust the valves on No. 1 to about .006 on the intake and .008 on the exhaust.
Rotate the engine until the rotor points at the next cylinder in line and repeat the process.
Carry this on through to the remaining cylinders.
The bad news is that if this engine has run for any length of time with tight valves the engine will likely have some valve and valve seat damage. Valves and seats don’t last very long with exhaust gas seeping past them as engines rely on valve to seat contact to transfer heat out of the valve itself.
You have mentioned melted pistons (which can be a sign of timing that is too far advanced) and too much advance can also burn out cylinder head valves.
About all you can do is adjust them, head to church for a prayer or two, and then see what happens.
Ok i adjusted the valves. They’re not perfect .006, i left a bit of play. Does it make a huge difference if the exhaust is also .006?
My problem now is it won’t start. It turns and pops (fairly loud sometimes) but it won’t start. I did a compression test and i get good compression, i checked my spark plugs and they’re good, i checked and rechecked the timing and it’s good. What could be the problem that it wouldn’t start?
The figure of .006 will work but you might define the term “good compression” by posting the reading on each cylinder.
People often post on this forum about figures such as 120 PSI or whatever as being good and that is not the case at all.
How did you check the timing if the car won’t start? Or do you mean static timing?
The cylinders had a compression of about 125-130. And I did do static timing.
I have a new problem. For some reason, it seems as though my car is only running on two cylinders. I’ll take it for a test drive and come back and the driver’s side is super hot and has melted the spark plug wires, while the passenger side is ice cold. What causes this? I have changed the cylinders, pistons, adjusted the valves, I have compression (obviously since the car runs).
A 130 PSI compression is fine for an air-cooled VW. They’re about the only engine running around where that is acceptable.
Just offhand, it sounds like one of two problems. There could be a fault with the flaps inside the shroud. These flaps work like a thermostat. When closed the engine heats up faster and the flaps open at operating temperature. They’re operated by levers, rods, and a thermostatic spring.
Try dinking around with those levers to see if something is hanging up. Many people wire these things open to prevent an engine roasting as stuck flaps will not be noticeable until it’s too late.
Another could be an intake manifold air leak on the driver’s side. What manifold does this engine have? You said the car is a 73 but the engine a 76. Does this engine have a manifold with rubber boots on each side? If so, boot failure is common with age.
What are these flaps and where are they? I have never heard of them before.
The manifold has rubber boots. I thought that might be a problem also so i replaced them, but that didn’t help.
Those flaps are inside the generator fan shroud; that big flat upright thing on top of the motor. Got to go now but I’ll be back on this evening and see if I can find a pic or something. At least the rubber boot thing has been weeded out.
Well, here’s what the flaps look like. They’re inside the shroud.
Here’s what the thermostat looks like. Should be mounted on the drivers side cylinder head.