Started down the road this morning, about a mile from the house, the check engine light came on (steady) with a blinking AT oil temp light along with various other dash lights blinking. The blue coolant temp light was still on, the outside air temp was only 37 F.
I turned around and went back home, put the car up on ramps and checked for any sign of leakage. Pulled the codes. P0700 which just means the transmission control module has detected another code and a P2763, Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit High.
The car is a 2014 Subaru Legacy, 2.5, CVT 53k miles. It should still be under warranty, I’ll have to check the book, it was either 50k or 60k.
I can’t find any other information so I’m wondering if anyone has any idea what I’m in for.
I don’t know if this is a symptom but when it is below 45F, the transmission stays in a very low range causing the engine to run at an excessively high RPM for a few miles after starting. It won’t follow the normal shift curve or lock the torque converter until it is fully warmed up. I often put it in manual mode and shift it my self to control the engine RPM and keep it in a normal range.
I have always felt the transmission keeps to a lower range than needed and revs the engine too high, but this is the first time I have gotten any indication. Today, when I left the house, I barely touched the gas to keep the engine to around 2200 rpm. I did not use manual. The lights came on about a mile from the house. I have not pulled the freeze frame data yet. I am waiting for the dealer service rep to return my call.
I see a similar loss in mileage, but it seems more-or-less linear with temp, from the few samples I have noted. On a fixed trip I make frequently, I get 34 MPG in the summer, and it drops to 28 or lower in the winter. Recently I got 26 with a temp in the high teens.
15 Forester
My complaint with the CVT is that it keeps in a “high” range, ie, RPMs too low. For example, at 20-25 MPH, the RPMs are 1000 or so, unless I hit the throttle.
I can save you the trouble of opening the glove compartment.
The Powertrain Warranty is 5yrs/60k miles, so you are clearly covered for whatever the problem might turn out to be. Just don’t attempt any repairs on your own, unless you want to void that warranty.
New info. After I got home, I started the car and put it on the ramps to check the transmission for leaks. I noticed that the AT oil temp light was no longer flashing, the CEL was on steady and the brake and CC lights were flashing. Same when I took it off the ramps.
Went to Walmart tonight. The ambient air temp was 47F. As soon as I got out of the driveway and put it into drive, the CEL went out and the other lights stopped flashing. I swear, the transmission shifted better than ever, or so it seemed to me. When I got home, I checked to see that the codes were still there, they were, so I wrote down all the freeze frame data. It has an appointment at the dealer in the morning.
Everything I found on the Internet indicated that best case, the transmission would need to be disassembled, flushed out and the torque converter replaced, worse case, new transmission. The recommended troubleshooting procedure was to remove the pan. If it is relatively clean, best case. If it is full of clutch material in chunk form, worse case.
There may be a Customer Interest Bulletin for harsh or delayed shifts on the CVT on this vehicle, requires a bit of manipulation then a relearn procedure to fix it apparently. No harm done to ask if that might be related. Number 16-97-15. Applicable to the 2013-2016 models w CVT. Googling might bring you up a copy to read. 3-67-12R is another tsb you should ask about, applicable when major repairs to the CVT are required, 2010 to present model years.