Dec 21,
Post 36
Post 2
Nov 21
10 hours ago, It was the electrical part of the ignition switch.
Just patting myself on the back, ouch my arm! Post 122
Dec 21,
Post 36
Post 2
Nov 21
10 hours ago, It was the electrical part of the ignition switch.
Just patting myself on the back, ouch my arm! Post 122
I’ve gotten tied up with electrical glitches at work before and have spent on and off over a 2 week period before finding the answer but never anything as goofy as my truck.
I don’t like getting beat on anything but that truck was whooping me pretty badly. Not a hiccup since and it doesn’t think it’s being stolen anymore either.
The one thing I can’t understand is why if that switch was so touchy that 57 MPH winds would kick it on and off with the truck stationary and rocking then why would it not act up on some of these horribly bumpy roads? Or door and hood slamming? Or during wire tugging? Or several nasty sets of railroad tracks that one has to take at 10 MPH or go airborne? Something I will never know I guess.
I’ve only had one switch issue in what, maybe 60 years. I’d turn the key and nothing would happen intermittently. Then turn the key a little harder and it would start. So I bought a new switch to put in but as I was messing with it, I just moved the switch a little to adjust it and that did it. Brought the new switch back.
So maybe the combination of the switch being a little mal adjusted after the years and just enough so that movement of the rod did it. If it is the kind of column mount I’m think of. But some things will never make sense.
maybe the switch only has the problem in the off position. making some sort of connection and making the switch in the on position.
Could be weekend-warrior. I know there were several times I considered just selling the truck and being done with it. I had to wrestle that aggravation so much it put me way behind on a number of things which I have not caught up yet.
I have a lot of empathy for someone who has a vehicle with an electrical gremlin. It’s not fair for the mechanic to spend 20 hours on it and get paid half that. It’s also a bit disturbing for a customer to agree to what is essentially a blank check; as in how long it takes it how much it costs.
Warranty is even worse and Subaru is the worst of the lot. Unless policy has changed (not likely) an electrical diagnosis no matter what is .2 hours; a whopping 12 minutes.
Subaru claims they will pay .5 hours (decimal there…) if a proper explanation is given but it’s been my experience that is a blatant lie. No matter how concise the explanation it was always claim denied.
Of course they have lied repeatedly about many other facets of non-electrical so it’s par for the course.