You just stated that the timing light wouldn’t light even with the button taped down. The timing light should flash while the engine is cranking. I wonder if oldtimer 11 is on the right track in suggesting that you have ignition problems. The problem may be as simple as the high voltage coil wire between the distributor and the coil. It could also be a failing coil.
One odd fix I recall in a similar problem was a gas line resting too close to the exhaust. Don’t ask me why but the too hot gas caused problems. I doubt this is the problem but just a thought.
Rather than rotating the distributor just move the plug wires one position around the distributor cap. Go in the direction OPPOSITE rotor direction to advance the timing.
But this doesn’t address the no-timing-light-trigger problem. That sounds like no ignition rather than incorrect timing.
You’re going to have to verify one way or another that you do or do not have a strong spark before you can really even begin to fix this thing because you don’t know for sure if you’re dealing with a fuel, an ignition or a mechanical problem.
To Barkydog, A hot fuel line used to cause “vapor lock” by boiling the fuel. The temporary cure was to pour water over the fuel linr to get the vapor to condense. The permanent cure was to reroute or insulate the fuel line.
I was thinking the same thing about the ignition when the timing light wouldn’t fire, that the ignition was weak. That is why I jumpered direct to the battery on the primary side, but I’ll look into that issue some more. I replaced the coil during all this, and I think the wires were also changed. Great idea about moving the wires one spot rather than taking out the distributor! Much easier. But I will hold off on that for now. Once before when the car wouldn’t start they found the battery had a bad cell on the tester. It ran fine with a new one. I had checked the voltage at the time, of course unloaded, and it was ok. Maybe that is happening again? WIth no load I have 6.4 VDC.
Most carburetor problems are in the ignition system(this is an old mechanics saying). Way too many carbs have been disassembled,dunked in solvent,blown out and incorrectly reassembled.
I was thinking the mg post when I suggested the fuel line. As a thought in the olden days when you bought a new set of points you got a new condenser. Try a new condenser just for kicks, I know they are there to reduce radio static, but say it is shorted? Otherwise have you removed the distributor and possibly put it back in wrong? Sorry if I offend with a simple question but are you sure the distributor cap is going on correctly? Do you have a dwell meter to double check point gap? Point gap and timing go hand in hand. Check the voltage change when you click the key to on without starting the engine re previous post. If it drops significantly I would suspect a short. Is the coil good?
@Barkydog–You are on the right track about a shorted condenser. However, the purpose of the condenser is to limit the current flow through the points. The points would burn out very quickly if a condenser is not in the circuit. The magneto on lawnmower engines have a condenser and lawnmowers (the push type rotary mowers) do not have radios.
@triedaq and all this time until I had to type it I thought it ended in g! Thanks for the new knowledge of what a condenser does, Now if only I had or kept a car that used one!
The condenser is there to slow the voltage rise across the points when they first open up.
In the first couple of microseconds when the points have opened but are still very close together the coil primary current briefly continues to flow through the condenser.
The points then have enough time to open the gap wide enough to prevent arcing and contact damage.
Rate of voltage rise across a capacitor dV/dt = I / C, where I is the current and C is the capacitance.
When it dies does it back fire? Or does it act like it’s running out of gas? It’s a long shot but I have seen rubber gas line close up under presser. The inside of the line comes apart blocking flow. Choking a motor to keep it running almost always means a air leak. I do remember the base of those carbs would warp and would leak air. I always would set them on a piece of glass to check them.
I had to re-type my last comment after accidentally deleting it while moving the laptop. The first time I noted that I replaced the condenser, probably for the second time during this ordeal. The car just dies, no backfiring. One interesting clue is that it always does better on the first start than subsequent tries. It fires more. It certainly could be the carburetor, but I dont think it is a fuel problem. There is always some in the bowl when I open it, and the accelerator pump sprays well. I don’t think it is a fuel problem because whether I pump gas in or not nothing changes. This car always started on the choke only, you couldn’t touch the pedal. So if it were a low speed circuit problem, I would think pumping a little gas in with the accelerator pump, or using starter fluid, would change things. Neither has an effect. I think it is an ignition issue, but darned if I know where. Everything has been replaced or jumpered! Both battery cables connect to the engine, so it isn’t a ground strap problem. I didn’t remove the distributor, but think it has been in the wrong position forever since I’ve had the car over 35 years. I moved the plug wires to try to get some advance adjustment, but realized the problem is the distributor. With the pulley mark on the pointer, the rotor points in the wrong place. I can’t turn the body nearly enough to get it in the right position to fire the #1 cylinder. Anybody know if I can temporarily hook up a 12V battery to the ignition? I know we used to jump 6V cars with 12V long ago in a pinch. I would use a loose battery, not one in a modern car! Thanks so much for all the ideas!
Pull the distributor. I think the drive gear pin is sheered. I have seen the pin sheer and jam the gear. The rotor turns but is way out of time. My Dad’s Ford truck did this. It would run then stall. Not restart. Then start and run. How I found it was I pulled the distributor to check the vac advance.
One of the Carter 1 bbls had a problem with the throttle housing working loose and causing problems. Often the screw that was accessed through the throttle bore would work out and drop into the intake and get into a cylinder. It bears checking into.
If your timing light is the kind that has two leads for the battery and a pickup lead, you will need to hook those leads to a 12v battery. The 6v battery will not supply enough voltage for it to work.
circuitsmith is dead on about the role of the condenser. Reducing radio static is a byproduct of the condenser, but often a second capacitor was added whose primary role was to reduce radio static.
When you pull the distributor, you will find it a lot easier to get everything back in right if you have the engine at the timing mark you desire for timing at idle. i.e. 4°BTDC or what ever is specified for this engine.
Mark the #1 post on the side of the distributor with a sharpie pen before you remove the cap. After inspecting the distributor and making any necessary repairs, carefully insert the distributor so that the rotor is pointing toward teh mark you made for the #1 cylinder.
It may take a couple of attempts as the shaft turns as the distributor is inserted. Then turn the body of the distributor until the points just start to open. One trick for this is to turn the ignition to run and turn the distributor until you see a spark across the points. Then lock it down.
I hate teh
If you don’t see a spark across the points as they open up, then you have either a bad condenser or a bad coil or a shorted or open wire in between. If you hook up a voltmeter to the - terminal of the coil, you should see about 3v when cranking. Not cranking, ignition on, you should get 6v with the points open, 0v with them closed.
I would not recommend hooking up a 12 v battery.