Stripped oil pan drain hole



My advice is not to use the ID number. The guys at the junk yards might not have the oil pans pulled and on the shelf, and sometimes you can give a parts guy the right number and still get the wrong part.

Since you’ve solved the problem in the short-term, I’d consider this quest a long-term project, not something you have to do right away.

I’d call around to see if any you-pull-it junk yards have any second generation (1988-1994) Ford Tempos or Mercury Topazes on their lots. Then, I’d take a bunch of pictures of your oil pan from all sides, print them out on letter-size paper (or put them on a tablet you can take with you), and go to the junk yards that have possible candidates on their lots. Compare the pictures to the oil pans, and if you find one that is the right size and shape, hire someone to pull it for you (or do it yourself if you’re capable).

If you’re lucky enough to find a used parts dealer who has it on the shelf, the pictures might still come in handy. That’s why I always take my old parts to the auto parts store, even if there is no core charge on the new parts. I want to compare the parts before I pay and leave.


This article by Popularmechanics is about options for repairing stripped oil pan drain holes.

But of course, life isn’t easy. The threads in the pan and on the plug are damaged, perhaps from partial cross-threading. What to do now? Forget the drain plug and get a repair kit. A typical kit has a replacement fitting that cuts deeper threads, and when tightened, it seals against a washer and remains in place. Some kits cut fresh, deeper threads for a new plug. A hexhead brass cap with an O-ring seal threads onto the end. When it’s time to change the oil, you unthread the cap. Others (for odd-size, severely damaged holes) are fat, cone-shaped synthetic rubber plugs larger than the drain-plug hole. You force a special rod into an opening in the cone, which temporarily stretches it and reduces its diameter, allowing it to fit in the hole. Withdraw the rod, and the cone relaxes and seals the hole–the cone won’t come out until you force in that rod to stretch it.

If the drain plug looks marginal, consider installing a Fram oil-drain valve kit. These are available for the most common types of drain-plug holes. Thread a spring-loaded valve assembly with a copper washer into the hole and tighten. The valve is the primary oil seal, and a knurled cap threads on fingertight against an O-ring–this keeps out dirt.

When it’s time to drain oil, unthread the cap and thread on a fitting with a drain hose, which you can aim right into the pan (no splatter and no hot oil running down your arm). The hose fitting has an internal tip that pushes open the spring-loaded valve, and the oil drains out. When the pan is drained, unthread the hose fitting (the valve springs shut), reinstall the fingertight cap and you’re good to go (after changing the filter and putting fresh oil in the engine, of course). If the drain plug is okay and you want to reuse it, replace the washer and then tighten the plug to specifications–20 ft.-lb. to perhaps 35 ft.-lb.–depending on the size of the plug.

Hope this helps!


According to the service data for a 93 Tempo 4 banger 2.3 L, the oil pan oem ID number is F33Z6675A. Have you asked about this at a Ford dealership? Sometimes they’ll have old, but never used, pans in stock or be able to find some old stock at another dealership. If you can find one that way for around $200, suggest to go for it.


Lets see , 1993 Ford Tempo given to the OP for free and went 5 years without an oil change. Apparently the plug they used is working and already had decided to suction the oil out the top on the next oil change. Sounds like a good plan to me so why spend a couple of hundred for a replacement oil pan for a vehicle that could run for a few days or a few years.

#45 Its the(FREE) car parts locator database for North America. Saw 2 pages of used and new oil pans for your 2.3L Tempo.


I recommend it because a $200 investment now might save $2,000 or more by keeping this car running an additional year or two, prolonging the the OP’s purchase of her/his next vehicle.

If this OP was in a position to replace the car in a few days or a few months, but just wanted to prolong it a little while, I’d agree.