Please advise!! Thank you.
John
Off the top of my head I don’t know the spec. The normal torque spec for a 12 MM shank spark plug in an aluminum head is around 11-14 FT LBs. A 14 MM shank plug is around 20 FT LBs.
The problem you have is that I’m assuming you are using a 1/2" drive torque wrench and these can be somewhat inaccurate when specs get down this low. A 3/8 or 1/4 inch drive is preferred.
To be honest, I seldom ever use a torque wrench on spark plugs. I’ve done enough of them that “feel” works just fine.
I always palm the ratchet head when tightening the plugs rather than use the handle only. Tighten it as much as possible with this method and you should be as close, or more so, than you would with the use of a torque wrench.
I’ve never had a plug work loose or leak yet.
JMHO anyway.
I’ve NEVER used a torque wrench for sparkplugs. Tighten it until it’s tight. Don’t have to use a lot of muscle…You’ll feel it when it’s tight.
I think you’ll find that EVERY bolt on EVERY car has a torque specification. I only use a torque wrench on the critical ones like headbolts(not only torque but sequence is important too).
I mostly agree with ok4450 on this, except that more and more, I’m using a 3/8" drive torque wrench. If the new plugs have a anti-seize plating, put them in dry. If they don’t have that plating, and it will be listed on the package, then use a Zinc oxide type anti-seize compound on the threads. Do not let this anti-seize compound get on the tip or extend past the threads at the tip end. Do not use a copper based or molybdenum based anti-seize compounds.