The PCV valve sounds like it is bad but I’m not sure if that will cause the O2 sensor to show a rich condition.
Well, it is VERY oily. But it DOES rattle well when I shake it and I can blow through it (not going to suck it…).
From: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/05/15/6b/0900823d8005156b/repairInfoPages.htm
Remember that proper operation of the PCV system depends on a sealed engine. The crankcase is sealed by the dipstick, valve cover, gaskets, and sealed filler cap. If oil sludging or dilution is found and the PCV system is functioning properly, check the engine for oil leaks and correct them to ensure that the PCV system can function as intended. Also, be aware of the fact that an excessively worn engine may have more blowby than the PCV system can handle. If there are symptoms that indicate the PCV system is plugged (oil in air cleaner, saturated crankcase filter, and so forth) but no restrictions are found, check the wear of the engine.
Could the leak that I showed in the image I drew be related to this? Should I tighten that bolt, and what is the deal with it anyway?
I doubt the bolt is causing a problem but I recommend you replace the PCV valve with a new one since it appears to be leaking. After it is replaced you can check things out. I suspect you will still show a problem with the engine running rich. Does the vacuum line to the pressure regulator show signs of fuel getting into it?
I stuck my finger in the short tube that connects the PCV to the Oil Seperator Tube and it is very sludgy… if that matters (diagram: http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528003a71b , figure 5).
Also, I don’t know if this is normal or not, but check this photo that I just took:
Can I safely pull that line out of the regulator without any prep work first?
EDIT: I guess there are a bunch of things I have to do first before pulling the vacuum tube… http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528003aba3
The reason there is oil there is because the PCV valve is leaking. It needs to be replaced.
You shouldn’t need to do anything to remove the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. It is just vacuum air and unless the membrane in the regulator is leaking and passing fuel into the airline there should be no fuel there.
When you say “the reason there is oil there”, you are not referring to the photo I took of my engine, right?
There IS a brown, oily substance on the nipple of the fuel pressure regulator that I saw when I pulled off the vacuum tube (there was a little bit in the tube as well).
Of course, it smells like gas, so that means I definetly have a hole in the diaphragm? So I need a new regulator? Maybe that and a new PCV will solve everything?
The brown substance is oil leaking into the air line from the PCV valve and most likely mixing with fuel coming from the regulator. You should replace both of them.
So, tomorrow morning I’m going to buy a new fuel pressure regulator and PCV valve. Then I’ll clear the codes and see what happens.
I think you will be good to go then. Good job on the troubleshooting.
Sorry, I don’t think the pcv valve is the cause of the DTC codes. If a pcv valve were flowing too much air (stuck full open, or the wrong one), it could lean the engine some.
You are on the right idea that unmetered air flow (air not measured by the MAF) can result in a lean air/fuel mixture.
It’s time to start using that shiny, new, digital multimeter. Yep. I hope you have downloaded, and printed (maybe, at your public library) the wiring diagrams, the alldata DTC Hxx charts, these pages of cartalk, and the other references.
Turn the ignition key OFF. Pull fuse #19 (15A). Use part of these instructions to disconnect the PCM electrical plug: http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528003aaa0
H26: FIND THE 12 VOLT POWER SHORT, if it’s there. Perform the O2 heaters to VPWR (Vehicle Pwr of 12 volts) for shorts tests by: Attaching multimeter probe to the disconnected electrical plug pin 71 (NOT the PCM terminals). Set multimeter on K ohms. Move the free multimeter probe to 91, then 60, then 87 on the plug (connector). The ohms should be more that 10K ohms. If less than 10K ohms, there’s a short in the wiring.
H34: CHECK O2 HEATER(S) (AND WIRING) RESISTANCE: Place multimeter on X1 ohms scale. Attach one probe to plug terminal 71. Touch other probe to 93, then 94, then 95, then 96. The resistance of each heater (and wire) should be between 3 and 30 ohms.
After this, you have those other neat Hxx charts, and the other references others have found for you.
You can vacuum test the fuel pressure regulator. Where’s your Haynes, or Chilton’s Repair Manual?
I did a lot of things today, but I did not get to the library… I will tomorrow. I went to Lowes, Autzone, and for kicks, my Ace Hardware to find those back probes, but no luck. I will continue the search tomorrow though and confirm it before I go anywhere.
“Hxx charts”, now are the "x"s variables that stand for something specific to my car, or is that chart literally called H-x-x, it just sounds vague… Using the power of The Google, I haven’t gotten to the point where I need to buy the manual yet… And is there a point in checking the regulator? Everything I’ve read has said that if there is oil in the air line connected to the regulator, then you have a ruptured diaphragm… I know the tubes are good because I replaced them and they are all snug.
You’re “not to the point where I need to use a [repair] manual, yet.” ! You are way past the point. Way past!!
You’ll have to order the backprobes online. In the meantime, use straight pins.
Hxx are the DTC troubleshooting charts from the alldata Web site. The Hxx stands for: H26, H27, H28, H–, series of charts.
Ok, it’s your call on the fuel pressure regulator. A large part of troubleshooting is careful examination, observation, and attention to detail.
I agree with you Hellokit about the PCV valve not causing the code but it is leaking oil into the intake. The fuel pressure regulator also seems to be leaking into the vacuum air and that seems to be the cause of the engine running rich and causing the P1131 code. That is my take on it at least. The O2 heater circuit code is another issue of course but should be pretty simple to figure out and fix.
A stretch of hose is a great way to locate exhaust leaks and pinpoint odd sounds. 3 feet of garden hose will do nicely. Stick one end in your ear and move the other end around suspect areas, kinda like a stethoscope. Caution: DO NOT tangle you or your apparatus with belts or rotating parts!
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There shouldn’t be oil in the tube from the pcv valve. Yet, there is. Look at your pcv illustrations at your reference Auto Zone Web link. The oil separator and tube are under the valve cover. Well, they are not separating the oil from the gases. They need examination to find out why. Is the oil draining properly from top of the cylinder head back to the oil pan? If not, it could be filling, under the valve cover, to an inch or two.
If there is oil in the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator, it’s either being pushed (opposite of vacuum), or it’s gravity (area lower than the source.
Check the engine oil level (Didn’t someone do the oil fill from a drum of oil?).
First, remember this picture I drew of underneath the car showing where a small leak is dripping oil onto the driveway, does it tell anyone anything? I’m still researching, but I think it’s the oil drain plug. EDIT: Yes, definitely the oil drain plug, I guess my next project after all of this will be to drain the oil and change out the bolt and gasket, which will be a first for me (I do have new ramps at least).:
http://badsushi.net/images/leak.gif
I checked the oil the other day and it is good, it was changed about a month ago. I have never changed it myself. As far as your drum question is concerned, I have no idea, let alone understand your question or it’s implication…
I’m working on the car now, will post again. (Library is closed today… damn it.)
FYI, if it matters: My driveway, where I park my car every day, is on a slope. It isn’t extreme, but it’s enough that I use the emergency brake each time.
So, I changed out the PCV valve and fuel pressure regulator with new ones. I had to disconnect the battery so now the codes are cleared. I let the car run about 15 minutes while I did some other things and I kept the scanner attached to the car, but nothing popped up (of course, I didn’t expect anything to). If the underlying problem with the codes has not been taken care of by these things, then I fully expect the engine light to turn on during my drive to or from work tomorrow. I will keep the scanner on and set to record when an error pops up. If the light does not come on by time I get to the library (close to house), then I’ll skip the library and wait until the light comes on to go there because since I’ve had this problem it has NEVER taken long for the engine light to come on once the codes are cleared.