So you’re saying you use 1/4" hose and fittings in the home shop? The IR I use specifies 3/8" and anyone I’ve asked (smart amateur or pro) basically says it’s all about the air volume. (Yet, so often still using 1/4" fittings even with a 3/8" hose). But you have no trouble running on a 1/4" hose?
I have a “bad experience” biography with impacts. I once spent about 1.5days trying to get the rear struts off of a car. The shoulder part of the bolts were just rust welded in and it took me a lot of penetrant and heating/cooling, and grunting with a breaker bar and all of that. With a decent impact it would have been no problem. I had a little pancake compressor and bought an impact. It worked fine for most things (save having to wait a lot sometimes b/c of the tiny tank size) - 1/4" fittings on 3/8" hose. Then I hit that stubborn axle nut (mentioned above). Found a larger compressor on craigslist, and went to all 3/8" I still just don’t even know if that matters…
That is funny cause that site is talking about construction, not an auto shop… The air hammer they are talking about is used in/for heavy construction such as breaking up concrete and asphalt, not to mention I don’t think cigroller is doing any kind of industrial mining…
Click on the application and then the Pneumatic Hammer kink to see the air hammer they are talking about, not the same that most of us have in our tool boxes…
That is why I use 1/4 at my house… And the amount of air volume come from the air compressor 1st, if it can not move more than a 1/4 hose will carry then you don’t require it… But at the end of the day either or will work…
If you are looking for a air hose for your pneumatic hammer or mining machinery. We do not recommend hoses less than 3/8 inch in diameter.
And no, I am not saying 3/8 is a bad thing, just may not be needed for home use… I mean, a 1500HP 3000# car would be fun on the street, it is just not needed unless doing a lot of street racing… lol
Well, you know…I wouldn’t leave it out of the question. I paint. I construct. I cut down trees. I work on cars. I dig hole for various reasons… I …like to be a jack of all trades and a master of none. IDK - maybe there’s a gold seam out there somewhere…
Now I am wondering if altitude effects the air volume, that is why Tester is set on 3/8 and I have used both with no noticeable differences??
My elevation is only about 550-600’… However I could just be way out in left field on that… I am not an engineer or a science guy…
I know that the NPK (No Prep Kings) Pro Mods that make 3500-4500HP with blowers and turbos loose about 800-1000HP at the Bandimere Speedway at 5800’, vs the lower elevation tracks… BTW The NOS cars make there own O2 so it does not effect them as much… lol
No, but I have on several other vehicles. I can’t imagine that Honda is much more difficult than say, Toyota or GM. And I used my Hart 20v 1/2" impact wrench without any problem. I also own the Hard 20v 1/4" impact driver, and Hart 20v hammer drill in that series. For working in tight spaces, I got the DeWalt DCF903 12v compact 3/8" impact wrench.
To be honest, impact wrenches are supposed to be used for fastener removal only, and ideally people use a clutch driver or manual ratchet followed by a torque wrench for fastener installation. Hopefully, people aren’t using these impact wrenches for installation, and over-torquing the fasteners.
Well, those Hondas are different because the engine rotates counter-clockwise, so the torque spec is kind of high and they use Loctite help secure the bolt. But the video Tester posted is a joke. Those crank bolts usually come off with a decent air impact. If not, some heat to the bolt will help things along. Also never put a chain wrench on a crank pulley like the guy in the video did.
I have learned to be very careful when dealing with very stubborn, rusted hardware. I have almost no feel with my impact and lots of torque. Experience has taught me when to be cautious and use hand tools and leverage to ensure the fastener is actually moving versus just twisting it off with an impact. It takes a bit more time (no issue for DIY) but far less than if I break off something. Sometimes, you just don’t have room for long leverage and you have to just go at it. But then I like to kind of sneak up on it versus putting the coals to it.
And as we all know, heat is the great equalizer where possible. I have had many orange bolts come out squealing like a banshee but out they came
One area I have not found an electric equal is with drilling. My air drill appears tiny compared to an electric hand drill. But it outperforms the electric hands down. It buzzes through anything effortlessly using the same drill bits where the electric struggles.
And if you also want one of these engines for your coffee table, they are only $1,700 for the Gasoline version, $1,800 for the Nitro Version, if that’s not enough, you can also get a Supercharger for $400 more, but the kicker is if you want it like in the video, it’s a cool $2,520 and change…
I think I will stick with the “VISIBLE V8 ENGINE” L L . . .
I was in the RC scene for quite a few years and still have a boat, car and airplane although they haven’t been run in a few years now. I never went so far as to spend this kind of money because my introduction to the hobby was when my brother spent a couple months building his first plane and in the first 5 minutes, it was returned to its original kit form. It crashed onto the only rock within 300ft in a wide open field…
L . . .