My car Mileage is 150,000. Automatic transmission.
Suddenly at lower gear, the acceleration became really slow and when I hit the acceleration padel, there is a rattling noise. I went to 1 mechanic shop and they told me the issue is with the timing chain .
I went to another mechanic shop, they also recognized the timing chain issue from code, then decided to change the timing valve solenoid, spark plug, and transmission fluid . This improved the acceleration a little bit but the problem did not go away.
They concluded that I have either a transmission problem or a computer software problem and recommended to change any of these two.
The OBD meter also showed P1009 code (Something with PCM sensor)
Please advise if anyone has any ideas.
Have you considered the possibility that the problem is related to the timing chain?
While this is rather unscientific, a failing timing chain usually sounds like a rattling chain.
The leading cause of timing chain failure is “extended” oil change intervals.
How often do you change the oil, in terms of both odometer mileage and elapsed time?
4-cyl or 6-cyl, and what year? Also, automatic transmission? Is your check engine light on?
Yes I have a history of engine oil problem. It seems like my engine oil burns too fast. I usually change it sometimes every 3000 miles to 5000 miles (depending on the recommendation on the oil change mechanic)
4-cyl. 2010 Honda Accord EX. Automatic
Yes it is on
How often do you check the oil level?
Do you replenish the oil as soon as the dipstick shows that it has consumed no more than one quart of oil?
Have you ever pulled the dipstick and found that the oil level was so low that you needed to add more than one qt of oil?
How often has the engine been run when the oil level was low?
Frequent episodes of driving with a very low oil level can easily lead to the timing chain being badly-worn.
OK. It has a timing chain, not timing belt then. Get the CEL codes read and the problems fixed. That will probably cure the slow acceleration. Record the codes and post them here. Maybe we can help you figure out what is wrong. Or you could go to a shop you trust, get the codes read, and have them fix the problems.
Previously I used to find that after driving for 1500 miles, the engine oil is almost gone. Totally zero. Then I used to add 1 qt and drive for 1000 more miles and then go for engine oil change.
Now my concern is how should I fix this problem. My acceleration is slow at start with really high RPM (>2000) and bad rattling noise.
Repeated episodes mean that your engine is worn-out… period.
The cost of overhauling the engine on this 10 year old, badly-abused car is likely to be more than the car’s book value.
That would seem to indicate that you also have a serious transmission problem.
If I had a 10 year old car with both a worn-out engine and a likely worn-out transmission, I wouldn’t even consider spending the money to repair it.
I remember 1 code. It is P1009 code (Something with PCM sensor)
That is further evidence of lubrication issues.
It could be the result of deferred oil changes, or it could be the result of running the engine dangerously low on oil.
You would use all 4 qts in 1500 miles, add 1 qt and drive another 1000 miles ?
You need a new/rebuilt engine.
You need a new transmission.
Until you put a new engine and transmission in this 10 year old abused car, the P1009 code is not worth fixing, it would be a waste of money.
However, then there is the question of whether it is worthwhile to spend the BIG bucks necessary to replace both the engine and the transmission in this 10 year old ABUSED car.
I would vote to pull the plug, and put the car out of its misery. Then, the OP has to try to search for a used car that has not been similarly abused by its owner(s).
Hint for the OP: Any car that you are seriously considering buying should be inspected by a competent mechanic prior to purchase.
Why don’t you find out what code is stored that is causing the check engine light to turn on?
He knows what it is P1009
The variable valve timing control (VTC) system, more than likely from lack of proper lubrication.
Sorry it is 2500 mile, not 1500, my bad
Last year I went to Honda dealer for the engine oil burning problem.
They made a test concluding that the burning is in allowable range and there is no problem with it.
If you are now stating that the engine’s oil is “almost gone” after 2,500 miles, that only proves two things:
You are not checking the oil as often as you should be doing
There is now significant engine damage
Because I know that my engine consumes almost no oil, I check the dipstick every 4 weeks or so, and usually the level has not dropped. However, if the level has dropped, I replenish the oil as soon as the level has dropped by 1/2 qt. When you wait so long between dipstick checks that the oil is “almost gone”, you have caused damage to the engine.
The dipstick doesn’t reach the bottom of the engine, it only measures the top 1 1/2 quarts. If the engine only needed 1 quart of oil then there was still 3.4 quarts of oil in the engine.
I went to Auto-zone. They checked & 5 codes were captured. But their computer couldn’t read those and was showing zero codes.
The store associate was surprised also as they never have seen such a thing. He was guessing that those codes might be transmission codes and hence their reader can’t read it.