I am looking at a used 2010 Camry with about 80,000 miles for $9,000 or should I buy a new Mazda 3 for over $21,000? The Camry is in good shape and has been taken care of.
How long do you plan to keep it? If it is a short time period, the Camry will cost you less in the long run. If you plan to keep it a long time, like 10+ years, the Mazda3 may be the better buy. With 80,000 miles on the Camry, it will need expensive maintenance items much sooner than the Mazda will. If you drive 12,000 miles per year, the same expensive items could be put off for 7 years before you equal the mileage.
BTW, the Camry has over 25,000 miles per year on it. How can you be sure that it was taken car of? Have you had it inspected by a mechanic? Even if you trust the seller, there could be hidden problems that might only show up under a close pre-purchase inspection.
Agreed with jt. If this is a long term car, buy it new. If you swap cars every few years, get the Camry (assuming you have a mechanic verify that it’s in good shape).
The Camry will be due for a major maintenance service at 90K miles. If this car has a timing belt it needs a new timing belt, water pump job 90K. If it has a timing chain the 90K maintenance with be new plugs and lots of fluid changes and other stuff.
The Camry has taken the big depreciation hit already and if you are not driving a lot of miles per year it might be a great deal. In 2015 your new 21K Mazda will be worth about 10K. In 2015 the '10 Camry will be worth about 7K.
I’d buy the Camry in a heartbeat, as long as it checks out and has a clean title. If it has a rebuilt salvage title, I’d want to be darn sure it was not heavily damaged and properly fixed.
The new Mazda will be worth far less than the Camry ten, and probably even five years from now, even though the Camry is used. I’ve seen tons of 300K Camrys. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 300K Mazda of any kind.
According to NADA.com, $9000 is not a bad price for the Camry. If this link works, it will show the price for a very basic 4-cyl Camry. http://www.nadaguides.com/Cars/2010/Toyota/Camry-4-Cyl/Sedan-4D/Standard-Equipment If it doesn’t work, check it yourself.
If the Camry checks out then I might tend to go that route; mainly because I’m adverse to depreciation.
There’s a lot of variables involved though.
I would go with the Camry because the price is right. You will need some maintenance soon and make sure you have it completely inspected by an independent mechanic.
With a mechanic check my preference is a Camry. Mazda3 are nice and sporty to drive but a small car with those yucky attributes. Like less comfort and over the longer term miles just get more rickety, rattles etc.
I am floored by the difference between a similar year/high mileage Corolla vs Camry. Or even Civic vs Accord. The larger cars simply hold together much better and the MPG loss is not that substantial.
Why is the Mazda so expensive? Our Mazda6 cost us under $18,000 brand new.
Our other car is a Camry. We refused to even consider a new Camry when we bought the Mazda. Reliable? Yes. Also mind-bogglingly dull and with extraordinarily poor handling comparatively…
“Why is the Mazda so expensive?”
The Mazda3 s Touring hatchback starts with an MSRP of $21,800.
Definitely have the camry checked out by a reliable mechanic first, at 80k you are looking at some future maintenance vs new no maintenance, it is a trade off between depreciation and repairs. If you can handle time off for brakes, tires, needed maintenance items go for the camry. If you feel probable repairs and maintenance will negatively impact you go new.
Two very different vehicles when new. Things about each are pretty opposite about the other. What lead you to narrowing down to these?
Strange question. Does the Camry belong to a friend or family member?
Looking at the link MG posted, $9000 for the Camry is either Salvage or Scam (or Dad’s). Is Craigslist involved somehow?
Interesting point mleich. I had not thought of that angle.
I recently had some 20" wheels posted on craigslist. I got a check by priority mail for far more than the wheels were worth. No letter, nothing. The next day I got an email thru craigslist telling me to deposit the check, get the shipping cost info and deduct that amount from the check, and return the rest via Western Union. I took the check to the local branch of the BIG BANK it was drawn on. Of course it was counterfeit. BEWARE of out of town craigslist deals, and any done by cashier’s check. Had I done as the sender said, I’d have been out the amount of the check, and the wheels.
The next time, I got an email telling me the sender was going to send me a cashier’s check with instructions on shipment. I told him I’d wait three weeks after deposting his check before sending the wheels. Never heard from him again.
Anybody want some 20"s ?
Craigslist is a cash only in person business only. Otherwise the chances of getting scammed out of money are pretty high.
Ended up buying the Camry for 9000, had our mechanic look it over, will need to put in about 1000 for tires, brakes, belts and trans. service but otherwise he thought it was a well maintaned. The car was a company lease car (and I know the person who drove it) and the company trades them in when the reach 75000/85000 miles. Thanks for your help, I didn’t want a car loan and am hoping the car will last a long time.