Rusted rotor. VERY RUSTY

Yosemite
"I watched that video this morning and the first thing I did when I got to the shop was to set up those bolts. nuts and washers in the drawer that I keep all the brake tools in. Now i’m ready for the next stuck on one."

Yosemite, I got stuck with two rear brake pad & rotor replacements in the past 2 weeks (wife’s car & daughter’s car), more from rust than wear. Surprisingly, the rotors didn’t fight me (that’s unusual!), but one slide pin did.

I was able to download and watch the video (That’s surprising, too. It took almost forever to download.), but I liked it! I’ve been there, done that with hammers, heat, PB Blaster, foul language, minor injuries, etcetera…

I too, assembled a “kit” for the toolbox, including photo and instructions. (Memory ain’t what it once was.) I stopped at a local hardware chain and they wanted $2.91 for just one hard grade 8 bolt! I passed.

Tractor Supply Co. had grade 8 fasteners @ $4.49/pound. I bought the 2 bolts, 4 nuts, 4 washers (I actually got 8 of them).

The whole works weighed .7 pounds (.7 X $4.49 = $3.14). $3.14 +tax for EVERYTHING!
Hopefully, I’m ready for the next stuck rotor.
CSA

@Yosemite & @Everbody!

Does anybody know if most vehicles will accept these same 1/2" X 3" bolts through the caliper bracket and is the length good for most vehicles? I usually only work on GM, and an occasional Dodge Caravan.

Also, please post your experiences using this method, ASAP.

Thanks for the link @SteveCBT

CSA

@insightful and @meanjoe75fan deserve the credit for the idea and link.

@SteveCBT
"@insightful and @meanjoe75fan deserve the credit for the idea and link."

You’re Correct! I Found The Other Discussion That You Started, 2012 Toyota Rav4 front rotors , and reread it.

Thanks @insightful and @meanjoe75fan !

@bloody_knuckles
"I also wire brush the hubs VERY well once the rotors are off and then paint a very light coating of never seize on the face of the hub."

I have been doing that for quite a while, now, too. It seems to make removing rotors much easier as it was on the 2 brake jobs I just did.
CSA

@meanjoe75fan
March 9
"I got a rusty rotor off by putting a bolt through the caliper bracket. You then thread a nut on, and tighten it, towards the head of the nut. This then acts as a jackscrew on the rotor, allowing a tremendous mechanical advantage."
“When the rotor finally gave way, I saw sparks(!) come off of the hub. I had to cut the bolt in half to remove, as the force had significantly mushroomed the bolt end.”

" I had to cut the bolt in half to remove, as the force had significantly mushroomed the bolt end."

Meanjoe, do you know if you used hardened bolts? Those grade 8 bolts I bought are hard the nuts and washer’s too. I almost can’t imagine them distorting under that pressure.

Also, those hard washers that serve as bearings while tightening the bolts have little friction when compared with softer metal ones.
CSA

If I ever see the need to use that method I will attempt it by turning the bolt’s hex head toward the rotor and pressing… But I wish someone had shown me that video 20 years ago.

@“common sense answer” No, I don’t think they were grade 8. I saw the technique online, and I probably just rummaged in the “loose parts” bin until I found the right size nuts and bolts for the job. Also, you could put an extra nut at the end of the bolt to take the forces and prevent distortion, if you have room–I didn’t, so I placed the bolt end against the disc.

@meanjoe75fan
"Also, you could put an extra nut at the end of the bolt to take the forces and prevent distortion, if you have room–I didn’t, so I placed the bolt end against the disc. "

I don’t see why you couldn’t just slip a short length of flat 1/8" or 3/16" thick by 1" or 2" wide steel between the bolt end and the rotor (if there’s room) to form a “pad” that would distribute the pressure a bit.
CSA