My 2000 Buick Century has a rusted out metal bushing that houses a rubber shock mount grommet in the lower control arm, left side. When I hit bumps, there is an uncomfortable banging sound, I assume it is from this rusted out bushing,. Is this something that can be replaced by a Saturday mechanic, or must I go to a pro?
While this is getting very close to the “if you have to ask, take it to a pro” situation, you could figure out if you can handle it by jacking up the car, putting it on jack stands, figuring out all the parts that need replacement, buy a repair manual at the car parts store, see what you have to do to repair it, decide if you can handle it.
But me, who has all the tools? I’d take it to a pro.
Your ball joint is probably bad too. Which a new LCA assy will fix.
Another if your asking it might not be a good idea to try this repair. Just let a professional fix it properly and avoid the chance of crashing and harming yourself or someone else.
Key word here is “rusted”
Do you mind lying on the ground whacking on a rusted bolt getting rust in your face?
Can you risk getting the arm 1/2 way apart and then not being able to get a bolt out? Do you have another ride?
If so, have at it.
I have all the tools, time and experience and I think I’d hire it done!
Your vehicle doesn’t have shocks. It has struts. And those mount to the steering knuckles.
I think what you’re talking about is a rusted out stabilizer bar end link.
Here’s an example of an end link.
Here’s the end link for your vehicle.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7750768&cc=1383421&jsn=413
These are easy to replace, once the old link is removed.
Tester
If this is your only transportation, hire it done, if you can do without it for a few days, have at it. You local or regional public library probably has Chilton,s online. Look up the procedure for checking the ball joint and replacing the bushings or the whole control arm before you decide.
Sometimes I do a repair on my car myself just because I have not done it before. That is why, the first time I needed struts instead of shocks I did it myself. I didn’t use quick struts, not only because it was cheaper but because I wanted to use a spring compressor and the parts store was willing to lend it free. If the spring compressor had acted up at all, I would have gone to the quick struts but all went smoothly.
If the problem is related to the control arms or suspension struts or shock absorbers, probably best to ask a shop to fix it for you. If it is just a stabilizer link as mentioned by Tester above, that’s something a diy’er inclined person could probably do in the driveway. You’ll need the proper personal safety equipment, a floor jack and jack-stands and a repair manual with the step by step procedure of course. One of the biggest mistakes new diy’ers tend to make is to try to fix things on their car without having the repair manual. Jobs like this often have to be done in a certain sequence otherwise problems you don’t want will ensue. For example suspension parts are often under considerable spring tension, so you have to prepare ahead to control any un-springing rapid movement as you undo the fasteners.
Thanks for all help and advice. Tester, I didn’t mean shock absorber when I said shock mount, I just meant there is a rubber grommet to insulate control arm from shock when hitting bumps, etc. I bought a new control arm, and plan to do a control arm job when I have the whole weekend to myself to do it. The stabilizer link is ok, and I think the ball joint is also, no wheel shimmy when suspension gets stressed.
You will find videos on youtube. Watch some and then decide.
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I did watch a few youtube videos about control arm jobs just like mine. I think it’s great that we can watch helpful videos online like that, and be on these threads like this also, to learn and observe.
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