I have a 82 with a 318 that look’s like the one in the OP truck & it has 2 belt’s for the alternator.
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Here’s an idea . . .
transfer the pulley from the old alternator, if you still have it
It’s possible the alternator is valid for this application, but perhaps the pulley is not
In any case, removing the pulley should be pretty easy, if you have the proper puller
I’m mentioning this because many alternators, ac compressors, power steering pumps and so forth come with no pulley . . . you reuse the old one
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The transmission bands may need to be adjusted, as might the kick-down cable.
The body has much less rust than my 2007 Ram. I think you have the foundation for a nice project.
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Yes, the belt is too narrow but it looks to me like the pulleys don’t line up with each other at all. The alternator pulley looks much closer to the engine. Are there supposed to be spacers between the engine and alternator? Also it looks like the belt sits deeper in the alternator pulley than in the crank pulley which would indicate the alternator pulley is wider. Something is wrong with the mounting, pulley or alternator. Maybe the parts dept at a Ram dealer can enlighten you.
That’s a really nice looking truck, great project and some tips:
- As the vehicle gets older people take all sorts of shortcuts so start with the Net and find every picture you can find so you’ll know what it should look like when it’s done. That should help with the belt configuration.
- Brakes are more important for safety than the engine and prone to rubber failure/corrosion so before you “take it for a spin” give them a real good going over. Flush with the correct fluid and meticulously check every component for leaks, cracks and seize. That includes the Parking Brake too.
- I’ve seen more vehicles, especially trucks, end up at the junkyard because of rust than anything else so while you’re under it doing the brakes, clean up any rust too.
It’s not fun or “sexy” but it’s the care of the hidden stuff that will keep it on the road for your son.
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That was my thought also. The alternator belt is too narrow for the pulleys.
You might post a pic take directly sideways of the belt.It’s difficult to tell but it looks like the alt. may be sitting back a bit too far.
I have a feeling that it may be time for a transmission rebuild but checking U-joints should be done first.
+1 on the u joints. Was my first thought when he mentioned the clank when shifting from park to drive or reverse.
Then he mentioned some other shifting and slipping problems and I kind of went straight to the realm of transmission terror.
To find part’s check LMC truck they have an online & paper catalog.
Alternator belt - the belt was sitting flush hen i first bought jt . i believe its sittig lower now due to it being rubbed away in some fashion. There is black rubber residue over the alternator ans blown back into the engine well.
The old alternator had one pulley. The inner groove lines up best with the fan groove. The outer would be way out of line. Will look into spacers maybe that could be an issue. After this 3rd belt and new alternator i noticed after driving 10 mins and checking again, alternator and belt were hot. After cooling I noticed the belt was worn away and sitting deeper and had a lot of play in it. I tightened the alternator up again some more and the sqealing stopped for next run . not sure if a permanent fix but will keep looking around for a proper original engine schematix. I researched as many photos as I could and a few showed double belts, a few on the outside groove, and a few as mine are. There is NO A/c on my truck as per original. My grandfather called it 2/55 a/c. Haha
Trans seems to be doing slightly better, since the lucas has been in and ran a bit. But im sure that it needs to be worked on. Exactly what the issue is will be my next goal. Im not against a new trans, but if I go that route I want to put a manual trans in . so deciding if repairing the one I have vs. All the work to convert over to a manual is a fork in the road. Would like to get her in good condition before adding any more elements to the mix. Going to probably do some looking into bands and such as mentioned, maybe a rebuild before grabbing a new trans.
I have been toying with how much original vs how much changing I want to do. Im torn as I want to keep it/restore it original as it was , but also the words of my grandfather were “its your truck son, do what you want”. And i can see the look on his face if i would get new rims or a lift, maybe a new color paintjob he would be happy over both the truck and how much I myself enjoy. So down the road it might steer farther away from original and be more personalized to my own taste . either way it being a family project is the purpose no matter what gets done. .
Adding breaks to the list, fluids ect. As mentioned by you guys. It was on list but moving it up as said its a safety concern and thats important. Plus since new tires are needed ill do that all in one go .
Going to get her up to check the trans next weekend i think. While i have her off the ground might take some time to address the rust. Any suggestions on removal techniques? Chemicals and tools? Im thinking wire brushes . saw some rust removal at auto zone i might look into. I was needing some for the bed. Its awfully rusty so i will pribably do my best to remove that over time. Another section on my list is to do a paint on bed liner sometime.
Another small issue is the blinker rod on the steering column. It is loose, broken i believe. It will control left and right , but i tap it a bit and left comes on, lift it up to stop, but once it falls back i to place the blinker comes on again sometimes. I have to lift firmly and hold for right blinker. Ill pribably look in there and get a visual on whats going on . just figured i would mention that in case anyone has any exlerience with that amd suggestions .
Power steering is doing great. Smooth no sounds or noises. Turning well all around .
Factory sound system was removed a while ago. Replaced with some speakers and a semi newer radio. But it was fried so i removed it all and going to order a new setup and get her making tunes again.
Interior lights, and console lights need looked at. Theres only one single bulb behind the speedometer working now. So its never driven after dark for numerous reasons. Hoping its just bulbs . looking at that today.
Heater works, but i think there may have been some adjustments made to the setup. I replaced all radiator/heater hoses as he had setup. But need to make sure there wasnt any changes that could affect performance or create issues. This is where i still am having troubles finding diagrams or pictures of similar engines to compare.
Air intake has new filter, but im unsure where the air is supposed to be directed from. I have a plastic piece that he had in truck but unsure where it actually should connect to. Theres an old tube that looks like a dryer exhaust duct coming from lower side , driver side, that goes to the intake. Unfamiliar with this one and need more info to better understand the setup. Might need replacing , its aluminum but looks kindof beat up and fragile.
Going to check spark plugs again after working on it to see their condition. He had installed a different distributor, to a chrysler i believe. By passed the computer I think. He had lots of trouble for a year or two finding a computer , and the ones he did find were not working well. Seems to work fine with what he did but i want to make sure its good setup for long term …
Cosmetically its okay. The clear coat is flaking off and rust spots are here and there. A few pellet gun dings where the neighbor kids took some shots at it when it was sitting around. Ill address those later down the road.
Going to do some engine cleaning soon and tidy up the wires best i can. There are some vacuum lines that i know have been adjusted. There a pump inside on front passenger side that has been disconnected . would like to understand its use and make sure that gets back into action . looks like it attaches to the fuel line . has 3 ports and a wire coming off it. Ill grab some pics soon.
Thats about it for now. Just slowly adding to the list and slowly attacking it. Not in any hurry to get her on the road , just wanting to do it all as needed and right .
I have a 2003 subaru forester that was given to me. Going to maybe start a thread on that once I get it towed up to my garage. That one is more of a priority as my daughter will be 15 soon and would like to have it ready for her. Going to have to move the Honda cycle around to make space. Hahah. Might have a few projects to keep me busy this winter.
Thanks for all your input ill surely update as I keep going . would like to keep this going and show progress . dont think ill ever hit a ‘done’ mark, so it might be ongoing for quite some time. Theres also 3 truck bed toolboxes and a camper top that eventually will be cleaned up and added down the road.
Thanks again ill keep you all updated!
That aluminum tube is there to help warm the carb and prevent carb icing in damp conditions under 50 degrees.
The pulleys gave to line up exactly with each other.
I assume this is the three speed Torqueflight, I would suggest dropping the pan and changing fluid and filter. Use ATF+4. While the pan is off I would adjust the bands as one adjustment is done with the pan off.
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Hoses from the vacuum . unsure the plan for disconnecting them. Would like to get these back where they need.
Hoping this vid works. Engine running. You can hear all the terrible squeaks im hoping. Being more loud today on the cold start. Im wondering if the water pump could be worn out and making sounds
V belts friction is provided by the sides of the belt, not the bottom. Too narrow of a belt will cause problems. This is what a properly sized belt should look like.
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If the belt is a bit loose and slipping, this would result
Also if belt is glazed.
Looking under a bit more. A leak appears to be around trans somewhere . bottom of it is wet with trans fluid i believe.
Small drip spon on driveway has appearead. Fluid levels are still same after a week since filling so its not too fast loss. But definetly needs attention
More of the trans fluid im thinking . no oil from pil pan, plug or filter seems to be leaking so im thinking ita just trans.
Checking U joints as mentioned. Not sure how to tell if they are worn without removing. Thinking to replace either way . might be giving some rough movements but could be both these and trans giving issues. Adding these to list. Figured maybe someone knows more about how to tell if they need replacing by sight . always looking to learn more as I go.
