Replacing shocks

I’ve got 80K plus on original factory installed, and need tires; I’ve been told tires wear quicker with old shocks (and v-vs).

How often should shocks be replaced, given normal driving?



It varies widely, and it’s hard to notice their gradual demise. Have you done the ‘bounce test’ (get each corner bouncing up and down, let go, and see if it stops bouncing immediately)? I replaced my Suburban’s around 60k with a set of Bilsteins, they were on special by the importer, about $50 each I think, those will last forever!

Tires don’t wear quicker with old shocks, tires wear quicker with worn shocks. Just because you’ve passed the 80K mile marker, that is no indication your shocks are worn out. I went to change the shocks on my car last year, with over 120 miles, and soon as I removed the bolt, they extended with lots of pressure, similar as I’d expect new gas charged shocks to have. Now while I cannot measure the amount of gas pressure, so I can’t tell if they have lost some of the original pressure, but that was good enough for me. I returned the new shocks to the store unopened, (after I checked the other one and found it good too). If the shocks are leaking oil, they for sure are bad. The reason worn shocks cause tires to wear quicker is that the shocks job is to keep the tire on the road while driving over bumpy conditions as well as prevent leaning, rolling, and other unsafe movements of the car while turning and braking, etc. Now if the shock is worn, and you drive over a bumpy road, the tire will not maintain contact, and as it hops and jumps up and down, that is what wears out tires. I never heard of worn out tires causing shocks to wear out faster, as long as the tire is properly balanced. I can see where tires not properly balanced, causing a lot of excessive up and down and vibration, that will eventually wear a shock out faster (at least in theory).

If the shocks are worn then get them replaced BEFORE you replace the tires.

One extra question: I love the way this truck rides on open road, but I drive a lot in the hills of east Tenn; would a better shock than these factory units give this Tahoe a bit better handling on the 2-lanes? Or should I put the $ into the tires and economize with less $ shocks?

Thanks to all.

Do the simple bounce test per Texases above. If you pass the test, you don’t need new ones. If you fail, you do. There are no if, ands or buts. You replace shocks (or struts) when you fail the bounce test whether it’s normal or abnormal driving. The big issue is safe handling when your vehicle hits bumps and holes, and turn corners at higher speeds. The little issue is ride comfort. Tires don’t have much to do with it.

I wouldn’t skimp on either shocks or tires. You don’t need the most expensive, but don’t go for the cheapest, either. Good handling is always a balance of shocks and tires.