Using a simple web search leads me to think you have no idea what you are talking about .
All of the references’ I found say the Calcium ingredient is benificial .
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Don’t blame 100 years of evolving lead-acid battery technology for the crappy products some crappy companies make.
“The most common additives are antimony, calcium, tin and selenium. … Modern lead acid batteries also make use of doping agents such as selenium, cadmium, tin and arsenic to lower the antimony and calcium content.”
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HI…yes hat’s the general call and naturally manufacturers are not going to denigrate it. This below is just first cab off the rank and is what I have
also and commonly found using Delkor batteries . I have also found the organisation in Australia to be pathologically dishonest. In a nutshell I find
infuriating that starting, driving then finding the car will not crank and the battery will not charge, using the correct charging gear and with functioning
charging system. I am not alone in that. ‘deeply discharged ‘ will refer to substantial current out exceeds insubstantial incoming current with heavy loading.
That’s not the case…The batteries can just die and no matter how charged will not recover. Lead acid batteries of the past rarely suffered
Un-recoverability unless very heavily discharged more than a dozen times or suffering plate-leaf shorting or lowering of the electrolyte. I have just
had another $300.00 Ba battery suffer the same fate…The ‘solution’ these days ‘buy yourself a $700 battery’. I’m trying instead to find a lead-acid
(old type) replacement. You’ll find some detailed articles exist on why not to buy one…unfortunately there are few options. Older cars may only charge the
Ca to say 80%…but there is, on my enquiry, no regulator conversion available…Naturally when a battery dies people just by a Ca battery as that’
about all available under $200-300…There are no practical options. Also the charging time for Ca batteries in normal driving when only getting to 80% is abnormal
compared with the older batteries which charged at 13.8 volts or thereabouts to offer 12.6 at the specified CCA.
“Calcium batteries are lead batteries that tiny amounts of calcium added to the plate to improve performance –
the problem is they can be very very difficult sometimes impossible to recharge if battery has become deeply
discharge even with a special charger. Most smart chargers simply will refuse start the charging process .”
Not being an engineer I’m just not following. I haven’t bought a battery in Australia in years though. I just buy them
from auto value.
Just a heads up, battery warranties are not what they use to be. Over the years, when I replaced the batteries (two 750-Amps batteries) on my 2001 Dodge Ram Diesel, I’ve always gotten 5-year warranties in the past.
When I replaced them in late 2020, the best warranty I could get was 3-years. I shopped the Dodge Dealer, Costco, Walmart, Auto Zone, Advance, Pep Boys, O’Reilly, NAPA, and the Air Force Base Service Station and not one of them offered a warranty longer than 36-months…
I finally bought them from NAPA for a “Sale Price” of $281.94.
I guess they figured that more and more folks are keeping their cars longer and those businesses are having to honor their warranties. That is certainly the way with us. I bought the Ram new over 20-years ago and in a few years, I’ll put antique plates on it. I know the dealer who sold my wife her brand new 1985 Toyota Corolla, with her Engine Guaranteed For Life, Oil and Filter Changed For Life, State Inspections for life, Parts & Service Guaranteed For Life, And Towing For Life, cringe every time we stop by… Sometimes it’s just to say Hello. They’ve replaced the steering rack once for free, the Alternator 2 or 3 times for free, and the A/C Compressor once for free.
And this does not count the 35 plus free state inspections nor the 100 plus oil changes every 3 to 4 months… That reminds me, it’s due for another FREE oil change in October…
So, Good Luck to you with shopping for a battery and please let us know how the shopping goes!