brake line distributor (“tee”) stud is rusted and snapped off halfway. The threaded stud protrudes outwards from the car body surface, and normally, the brake line tee would slip over that stud, then a hex nut would tighten it down.
the space around the stud allows at best a rotary tool to slice the bolt at an angle, or possibly grind it down. drill, nutsert tools won’t fit - without massive work to remove suspension. there’s maybe 1-2 inches of space in-line with the stud. sideways approach is much greater, but still there’s bumps.
What other methods exist to solve this problem? Try to drive a self-tapping screw into the sanded-down stud?
update : pics - and probably going to use a nutsert if I can get it or a trivial bolt/hex nut/washer deal.
order/description/etc. a mess b/c no time to do it nicely using the fast mash method:
fron inside under rear passenger footwell - look for the 1/8" drill bit
stud
stud cut/ground/torn out with 1/8" drill bit inside the hole:
Since this is not a load bearing component, I would simply use a couple of nylon cable clamps (see pic) on the brake lines located in an accessable place. Drill a pilot hole and use sheet metal screws.
Is there enough of a flat space next to it to epoxy another type of “stud” to the area to attach a holding device for the brake line distributor? Sometimes I solve these type of problems by browsing through the hardware in a big-box hardware store with an open mind.
The drilling suggestions are still met with accessibility trouble - unless the fastener rotates 90-degrees and is placed under the car… or above the area in question… going behind and underneath is an idea… hmmmm
Also for the record I know Craftsman has a 90-degree adapter for a rotary tool - not sure about much else with it…
I came up with an idea while drifting to sleep last night. Perhaps you could epoxy a “coupling nut” to the stub of the bolt and use a bolt screwed into the coupling nut to attach the bracket. You could cut the coupling nut to whatever length is appropriate.
Jt, you might be right, but the original problem was a lack of working space. I’m trying to come up with an idea that might work but not require removing suspension.
Without a photo I’m having trouble picturing the problem. Feeding wire inside a nut as Bing suggested for the weld might not be possible without removing the suspension, as I think you are suggesting, SMB. I suppose it wouldn’t hurt I try the adhesive first.
hmmm … I’d be inclined to follow the suggestion above to ask a shop to weld either a nut or new stud there. An aggressive epoxy might work too for that application.
Another idea. If there’s enough room on the remaining part of the stud to install two nuts on it, one locking against the other, you might could just wrench the stud out and replace it.
Finally … well, this is a long shot, but dentists have this same problem right? Having to drill holes in tight spots with little clearance? At 90 degree angles? So there must be tools available that would allow you to drill a hole in the stud at a 90 degree angle, then remove it with a stud-remover, like an EZ out. Maybe Dremmel offers something. Me, I’ve never had a lot of luck using to EZ out things, so I’d probably not use this idea myself. If none of the above worked, I’d just start taking the suspension apart. I suspect doing that wouldn’t be as big of a job as you think, when compared to trying to do this using a work-a-round. Best of luck.
I’d just buy or fabricate a what is called a hex male-female standoff. Use a nut driver to screw it onto the remaining part of the original stud. I know up to 1/4-20 is commonly available. Anything larger you could make from a length of stock rod.
I tore at the stud with a rotary tool carbide grinder until it popped thru to the inside of the car. I didn’t know this would happen. Now a bolt can go in, or nutsert.
Should be in the clear - thanks for the big response.
