If the tires are feathering, the root cause is the alignment. Yes, some tires are more sensitive than others to mis-alignment, but if the alignmment is good, then ALL tires, regardless of brand, will not get feathering.
The problem here is “Good Alignment”. It is my opinion that the allowable tolerance for the alignment settings is too wide to assure good tire wear. Since many folks only go by the published tolerances, they will say “It’s in spec, so it’s good.” Not true.
The second problem is the target values. Many car manufacturers specify high levels of camber to get good handling properties - and it does that, but the result is a tendency to develop tire wear issues. I think you’ll find the camber on your Toyota is specified too high.
OK, I just looked up the alignment specs and indeed, this vehicle specifies a high camber. Fixing that is at least a start to fixing the problem.
@CapriRacer : I have a Nissan, not Toyota. Did you mean Nissan?
@db4690 is the camber something that is checked with an alignment? If not, is this something I should convey with the mechanic when having it checked in the future?
I’m really starting to think that the shop that put my tires on (and neglected to tell me about the bent rims) did not properly align the tires. I now know since my last post, that the tires are balanced and rims are fine, bearing are fine, etc. Next step is to take it in for an alignment if that would be the next option.
Capri is our resident tire expert, and I absolutelty agree with his post in that feathering is a symptom and not a cause…99% of the time. However, in this case the problem you’re trying to “solve” is road noise and vibration. If the original cause of the feather has been resolved, than the feathering could, in fact, be a “cause” of the hum, even though it was not the root cause of the problem overall.
It’s also a fact that some peopl confuse “feathering” with “scalloping”. Since you had a bent rim, the erratic wear could cause road noise even if the rim was replaced. Since rotating the tires manifested itself as a shaking of the steering wheel, I suspect that’s the case here.
In short, you’re driving on a poorly worn tire that’s causing noise.
Since you whacked something hard enough to bent a steel rim, I’m still not satisfied that the bearings are not damaged. They can be and not feel loose, and looseness is what shops usually check for. Damage to bearings can manifest itself diffently from wear.
And you seem to have doubts about the shop being used. It’d be worth the extra money in my opinion to get everything checked by a reputable chassis shop.
@the same mountainbike any suggestions on reputable chassis shops? Or should I do some researching for a local shop in Cincy? It’s not that I have doubts, I trust the dealership I go to, but I know that often times things can be overlooked. The tech that looked worked on it was seasoned master tech for Nissan.
Could the wear potentially be that bad to have the same effects? I feel it on the highway, and notice a slight “wobble” when idling as well (although it barely noticable at this speed), which I originally attributed to the bent rim, but after it persisted when the rim was replaced and tires balanced, my only explanation was the tire wear being uneven.
I’m almost to the point that I want to put a whole new set of tires on so I don’t run the risk of any future problems, including the bearing, being effected by this nonsense!
Look back, this is why I mentioned not to overlook the tires before.
I have seen people chase their tails with similar issues.
The bent wheel run for an extended period damaged the tire surface. Change the wheel but not the tire and the problem persists. If the tire is in otherwise mint condition and the tread distortion is not too bad (like the bent wheel caused heating of the tire and damaged the belts or something similar) I wonder if shaving it to straighten it back out is an option. In the end, messing with both tires on that axle is likely to be throwing good money after bad. Personally, I would have replaced both tires on that axle when the rim was replaced. Cheap insurance IMO…
@the_same_mountainbike I wasn’t sure if you knew a reputable chain. Also, the wobble I mean is at speeds of 15 and under.
@twinturbo thanks for the advice. Here’s how the tire positions started. I got new tires on and was told about the rear passenger rim bent and replaced it immediately. Then at around 9k miles later my tires were rotated and I started feeling the shaking in my steering wheel. Then dealership found then front driver side rim bent (so when I put the new tires on, both rear were bent) . I declined to fix it at that time in order to shop for a rim, so they moved it to the rear driver side position. Then rim was replaced and that tire remains in the same position. This puts the tires that had bent rims at a diagonal from each other. So, the front passenger was the first bent rim but I’m not as concerned about because I barely drove on it before it was replaced. The rear driver side is the tire that had the bent rim on longest.
So, what I’m confused about is why I’m feeling the shaking and pulling back and forth in my steering wheel when the worst tire is in the rear. Or would this not matter because having one bent rim could compromise all the tires?
The other note I want you to remind you of is the shop that put the new tires on is now out of business. I did not know the mechanics or their qualifications but knew the owner and figured I could trust him.
They did an alignment when they installed the tires so I’m wondering if they maybe messed something up with that.
As far as next steps, I’m not completely satisfied that it’s just the tires so I will have the alignment checked next to rule that out.
A bad tire in any position can make the steering wobble. As an example, I had a Grand Marquis that developed a significant steering wheel vibration. This is a big, heavy car. Started at the front end, no problems found. Got the rear end up and supported. Idling in gear you could see a slight wobble of one rear tire. Separated belt. Could have sworn it was coming from the front…
@twinturbo that’s good to know. So, maybe I’ll have the tires checked at a tire shop and see what they say. Would it be worth just telling them to check my tires to see if any are eneven, rather than pointing them to the suspect tire? I don’t want them to just look at the rear driver side tire and automatically say it needs replaced just to take my money.
Don’t be surprised if the tire shop doesn’t find the source of the wobble. It only takes a little to variation to cause something you can feel. The rule of thumb is 0.001" = 1 #. So 1/100th of an inch would equal 10 pounds - something that might be perceivable.