Would you mind explaining what you mean by that? I can’t see it costing that much to fix a scratched fender, if that is what you mean.
Resurrecting the thread…not for the first time it seems.
So I have a similar query, but not quite the same…say I wanted to have a mk1 Volkswagen Rabbit, at least on the outside…it’s not as big as an Impala, so sourcing a compatibly sized frame would in theory be more feasible…what would my likeliest candidates be? As well, say I was to somehow make this an electric conversion (money aside, I acknowledge it will likely be stupidly expensive), how would this affect things?
And finally, just because I’m probably living up to my username, if I was to get the body 3D printed, would that make things potentially easier? With a 3D print, I imagine adjustments could be made to better match a frame…
Just buy a Mk 1 Rabbit.
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You can’t 3D print a sheetmetal body. It is too thin.
You could 3D print the dies to stamp the body but that would be very, very expensive. 3D printing is not the answer to every custom creation.
This kind of project happens every week. Normally the cars are called resto-mods. They are a blend of the classic car and modern technology.
For a mk 1 Rabbit, use modern Golf and Audi hardware fitted to a modified and strengthened mk 1 body shell.
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- The Rabbit is a unibody car.
- You really can’t 3D print a metal body panel.
There never seem to be any for sale when I look.
That…actually sounds pretty solid, thank you! I hate how the current golfs look, cannibalizing one for my purpose would not break my heart…
You are not looking in the right places.
The concept of marrying a Classic body with Modern technology is a dream that goes back more than 50 years and is still attractive today so I doubt this thread will ever end.
On the plus side I’ve seen some very nice examples of T Buckets, Cobras. Coffin Nose Cords, early Porsches and a stunning early Bugatti Racer but at the same time I’ve seen some replicas that have been absolute crap. The difference is money.
My suggestion is that you start with the “Kit Car” market, decide on your budget and what you want.
For example, the early Bath Tub Porsches weren’t mechanically all that different from the VW Beetles so with some time, money and effort you can achieve a reasonable cost effective replica but slapping a front engine MG TD body on a rear engine VW Beetle is simply a waste of time and money.
An Impala, family car, uniframe body of anything? Why bother?
At an auction a few years ago someone’s 60’s Suburban that was built around the chassis and interior of a later model Yukon Denali complete with all the Denali’s luxury features working such as the rain sensing wipers and all the modern safety gear. Probably went for nowhere near what it cost to build but it was well done.
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I know this is an old thread but I was looking for information on this exact topic, and maybe new information might be floating around? Swapping newer frame and drivetrains into classic cars isn’t anything new, but it’s helpful when someone has already done it and has advice on doing it.
My ultimate goal is to restore a 1967 4 door Chevy Impala but be able to actually drive it on long distance road trips and have it be super reliable. Like to the point it could be a real daily driver. (Yes I know you can just restore the original, I know I will get 20 people saying that)
From what I’ve gathered, a 4 door '67 Chevy Impala has a wheel base of 119 inches, and so does just about every short bed single cab Chevy Silverado ever made. It would definitely take a lot of fabrication but I’m curious if anyone has ever attempted something like that on an Impala and if there were any major issues, and I’m not talking about issues like wiring and fabricating mounts, I’m wondering if the shape of a Silverado frame is just too different to put under a car
The friend of my BIL did a 57 Chevy. New frame, corvette engine, new trans and drive line, new interior and electronics, and extensive body work and painting. Heaven knows what else. Did a lot of work himself but still several years and well over $100,000. But yeah can drive all over the place like a new car. Just looks like a 57.
You just have to make sure the width of the frame is also right, if you like the ride of the donor truck. More common to buy a new frame from Art Morrison or similar company with coil over suspension and set up for the brakes and drivetrain you want.
First question. Do you have 100 grand on hand to hand over to a custom shop at this very moment just to get the project started? If not, you are going anywhere at this point.
Those cars were not unreliable enough to keep someone from driving them. In 1973 we had a massive flood here. Hundreds of cars were lined up and sold on the cheap.
Friend bought a 67 Impala 4 door for 300 bucks. Straight as can be 1-owner, all accessories, and 396 big block to boot. Changed the lubricants and drove that car for another 10 years including multiple road trips to NE from OK with no issues.
IMO, the major thing that hurt cars back in the day was the lead in the gasoline. That stuff is nasty and highly destructive but has not been an issue for a long time; other than AV gas.
The wheelbase isn’t the issue. The leaf spring rear suspension is inferior to the coil spring rear under your Impala. There is nothing specifically wrong with the Impala’s suspension. It can be completely rebuilt with new everything… bushings, steering linkages, ball joints, steering box, brakes, body mounts, rebuilt axle, the works.
It can also be easily upgraded with power disk brakes, faster ratio power steering, bigger swaybars, better shocks. It IS a Chevy, after all, the parts are available from a number of sources.
It is a BIG Chevy so you can swap in a modern fuel injected V8, electronically controlled 4 or 6 speed automatic transmission as well. Then a more modern dash and stereo. This is all do-able… with loads of cash and lots of labor.
Trying to just drop the Impala onto an existing modern frame would be far more headaches with more labor than just ordering a ton of bolt-on parts already engineered to fit.
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The cost is the limiting factor. Sure it can be done…but it’s not cheap.
You can even buy a brand new 64-66 Ford Mustang Body shell from Ford. The shell is made with modern steel and modern welding techniques so it’s far better then the original body’s. Then add the rest and you’re well north of $150k.
Ford Unveils New Body Shells For 1964-1966 Mustangs At SEMA (motortrend.com)
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Revology cars will build you a throughly modern, drive everyday, 1966 Mustang GT fastback coupe from those brand new bodies with brand new engines and more for only $217,000!
I have seen a few cars built that way but not a rolls. Something I have been wondering about since the advent of the SMART car I have heard the Chihuahua dog as described as an attitude with four legs would a SMART car built like that be called an attitude with four wheels 
This is a good looking blend of classic and modern. 2019 Tahoe with Blazer body panels. Lots of work involved with this custom build;
