Impossible to give an informed opinion until the diagnosis is ready.
That is better. The oil light bothers me. The manual says to just shut off and restart? In a gas engine, you would just shut down and call for a tow, diesels, I’m don’t know. The light must mean something other than oil pressure although the fact that it comes on at idle indicates oil pressure problems.
Diesels have a reputation to make the oil look dirty in a very short time. I would think that this would be lessened in modern highly efficient diesels that don’t produce the soot they used to.
Tester might be on the right track. With this added information, he maybe able to help you more than I can.
The grinding noise, does that happen when the vehicle is not moving?
I still think the damage was done at the second oil change, not the first. I asked if this has an oil cooler because if so, it might have a separate drain for it. I have even seen large capacity oil pans with two drains, although I don’t know if either is the case for your engine. If it does have two drains, and they only drained one of them, then they could have overfilled the oil.
If that is the case, then excess oil could have been pumped up into the combustion chamber and burned, hence the black smoke. I don’t know if that could have gummed up the turbo though.
I would also check that transmission oil level while your there. Can’t hurt.
On second thought, you may not be able to check the transmission fluid level, Chrysler has started sealing the dipstick. Not sure when but they were sealed in 2010. Look for any traces of tools on the transmission drain bolt, if it has one.
Thanks Keith. I don’t know if it has an oil cooler, but I will ask the dealer.
The grinding noise did not happen when the vehicle was not moving.
Thanks so much for every one’s comments and thought. Very helpful and lots of information. I really appreciate all the input.
I believe it would be good to also point out that the weight of the oil (like 10w30) is not the only thing you need to check. It seems to get more complex as the years go by. Now you may have additional specifications that need to be included. Read the information from the manufacturer of your car. I have even seen updates from the manufacturer after the car was sold.
I don’t believe the oil weight has at all to do with this problem. What’s not clear is how much of that weight oil was actually in the motor at the time the oil light came on.
I just got off the phone with the dealer. He said so far the car is running fine. They cleaned out the turbo and made sure the oil level was right. The mechanic felt as long as they had used diesel oil the first time, it would not have caused damage to the engine. I am going to ask for some type of warranty just to be sure.
Rue Let us know how its doing in say a week or so. I will be the first to admit I don’t have clue as to what happen. But all this over oil and now its ok…? I hope I am wrong but I don’t think this sounds right. I am hoping for a happy ending for you.
This site seems quite informative on the subject of viscosity.
http://widman.biz/English/Tables/Graph-motors.html
I would guess that if the ambient temperature involved was above 40* F the 15-40 weight would do no harm. And FWIW I have a master patch on my uniforms.
Rod Knox: Exactly. Thicker lubrication is better than no lubrication, and I’m hardly one to believe that 15W40 diesel oil (especially the newer J spec oils) caused ANY mechanical damage to this engine. My shop had a commercial fleet account with a company that would not approve ANY oil changes other than the standard 5w30 semi-synthetic out of our bulk oil spigot. The last time I saw that E-350 6.0 diesel van it had 220K on it, and every oil change was 5W30 (granted… there’s no way in HELL I would do that to my truck).
Beninsd: Just how in the HELL do you come up with these definitive diagnoses with so little information being given by the OP other than he had non-Mercedes spec oil in his diesel for a very short time? If anything, I would look to other issues with this VERY emissions-laden engine such as the EGR cooler system, which can depending on how it’s designed, lead to engine oil being drawn into the cylinder. Stop taking an incomplete picture of the OP’s Jeep and drawing a concrete conclusion based on vague symptom description.
I have my doubts about the thick oil being that serious a problem although I could be wrong.
But,
1) Based on Tester's info, then the starting before 15 minutes could have been a problem. A turbo *would* lunch out pretty quickly if it doesn't have lubrication.
2) I'm VERY surprised that they would fill it until it is past full, and then just say "that is not a problem". My cars all have warnings, even on the dipstick itself, "Do not overfill!" This can cause foaming of the oil, resulting in air being pumped in where oil is supposed to go.
If you are lucky, it is just the turbo. It should cost much less than an engine (even if you get the shop to pay for it, they'd "fight" you less on it if it's less out of their pocket.) Good luck...since it's not 100% clear-cut (like they left the oil cap off, or drained it and forgot to put oil in) they may try to fight on it. If so, I'd use Google to find a forum that specializes in CRD Jeeps (there may be a whole site, or a Jeep forum with CRD subforum). If using 15W40, or overfilling, or not waiting 15 minutes, kills 'em then there will be people with first-hand experience of this, and you'll have some evidence instead of just (admittedly likely) suppositions.