I’m getting ready to do brakes on my 08 650i convertible. Is there anything special I need to do/know to bleed them and flush the brake fluid? Is this reasonable for an experienced DIY’r or better left to a shop?
Make sure to use the correct brake fluid, I’m sure you already know that… lol
Do you have a scanner to work the ABS module for bleeding the system?
And of curse don’t forget to replace the pad wear sensors if not included with the pads already…
Don’t have the scanner. That is what I was afraid of. I know there were/are some ABS that don’t need a scanner, I should have known I couldn’t have that kind of luck with a BMW. Looks like it is headed for the shop.
Now why would you think that it would be easy to flush/bleed the brakes when BMW spend $$$$$ to check oil level when a $$ dipstick would work?? 
Seriously though, I have never had an issue just doing brake jobs (pads & rotors) on BMW’s but I always referred them to Euro shops for opening the hydraulic system…
I’m not a pro but listen to them and read a lot. When you finish, just take it to a shop for flushing and bleeding. You’ll be happy you did. Open the bleed valve as you push back the caliper cyl so that you don’t push the old fluid back in. Pay attention to the grease points on the discs, etc. any crazy software issues with bmw like when the battery is replaced?
1 Like
My guess is that the cost to have a shop do the job will be equal to or less than the price of tools, including scanner, and materials to do the job. When I’ve encountered this situation in the past I’ve paid someone to do the work.
Don’t know if typical or not, and about 6 months apart, but the Acura dealer charged about $100 for the flush. My indi shop charged $230 on my Pontiac. The brakes have never been better.
This part I remember, but thanks for the reminder. I’m going to do the pads and rotors, and will let my shop do the flush.
1 Like
ABS/ASC +T, or DSC?
To be honest I’d have to go look, and the other half has the car right now.
Do you have access to a written procedure for how to do this job? If not, it may be a fool’s errand to try to do it yourself.
Pads and rotors, no problem. The fluid flush I’m having a shop do.
2 Likes
I just noted you preface the title in your post “Q 4 pros”. I expect you already know that I’m a driveway diyer, not a pro. Your proposed half diyer/half pro method seems workable though.
1 Like
I can do pads and rotors in my sleep. Hard part is freeing up the bleed valve. Then having the equipment for a proper one man bleed, instead of using the wife for push Down, let up, rinse and repeat.
I was thinking speed bleeders, then I thought why take the chance. I did turn wrenches back in the 80’s and 90’s and know how quickly things can “go south”.
1 Like
Hint, insert the shank part of the biggest drill bit that will fit in the bleeder valve and then put your boxed end wrench on the BV and smack the wrench (with another wrench etc) trying to tighten it 1st (you are just trying to break the bond not turn it) and then do the same to try to loosen it, you are trying to shock/vibrate it a little to try to break it loose, kinda like an impact does when it hammers a bolt/nut loose… the drill bit will help keep the BV from collapsing in on itself and snapping off… your results may differ…
1 Like
Three were fine but one was tight. Opened slightly enough to dump the fluid. Didn’t want to break it so bought a caliper to have on hand and got more aggressive with it. It came loose and just put a new valve in it. That was on day three. 
2 Likes