Quaker State Motor Oil


Lets see, you join and the first thing you do is add biased opinion to an old thread. While not exactly Spam it is self serving.


And yet when I pulled the valve cover on my Matrix (to check valve lash), which has had years of 5000 mile changes with “dino” oil of various brands, it was the cleanest engine i’ve ever seen.
Not even a bit of discoloration.


I’d be very surprised if today’s Quaker State has any more ‘Pennsylvania Grade crude oil’ in it than any other motor oil. Pennsylvania’s not producing that much crude these days (lots of natural gas, though).


Does their packaging even state at this point that it is refined from Pennsylvania Grade crude oil?
I don’t know the answer to that question, so I am just inquiring.



I don’t have a bottle handy, but neither their website or Wikipedia mention which grade crude…it could be on the bottle, though honestly I doubt it. Wiki lists their headquarters as being in Houston


I bet it doesn’t. I was just commenting on the earlier post/spam’s description of Quaker State oil.


I have used penn grade oils since 1979 in my 1969 chevelle SS396 , most oils are not refined form penn grade fields anymore since more profitable areas have been found. But the time I used penn grade oils I never had any sludge problems. People are rude and disrespectful, All I can say to you is get a life .


Personally if I owned a quick lube place, I’d rather it be a Mobil place than a Pennzoil place but you’ll forgive me if I pass you by based on my experience in the 60’s, relevant today or not. We become brand conscious young and tend to stick with the brand unless burned. Not necessarily sludge, just residue on all the internal parts. And I’m talking lawn mowers, go karts, and snow blowers, but freezing the rings up on my diesel was the last straw.


Quaker State is a Shell Oil Products, USA (SOPUS) brand, just like Pennzoil. They all use similar (though probably not identical) additive packs. So essentially, the answer to the question “what’s the difference between QS and PZ?” Is “one has a yellow bottle; the other, green.”

Both use oil sourced from “wherever’s cheaper”; note it says “Pennsylvania GRADE oil,” which in this case, means roughly what Ford’s “military GRADE aluminum” means. AFAIK, the only oil co. using actual Keystone State Lube is Brad/Penn (originally headquartered in…Bradford, PA.)


@Bing I took Bing’s advice about Pennzoil motor oil last year. I was hoping the Pennzoil would do in my lawn mower engine and I wouldn’t have to spend hours mowing the lawn. Unfortunately, the mower just purred along with Pennzoil in its crankcase. I just spent an unnecessary $2 extra for the Pennzoil over the house brand at Rural King that I would normally have purchased. As I prepare for the spring season, maybe another poster knows a brand of oil that will do in a mower engine.


I can’t help you, unfortunately.
I use Wal-Mart’s house-brand oil in my snowblower, and it continues to work flawlessly.
(I hire people to cut my lawn, so I don’t have a lawnmower.)


maybe stuff someone is selling at a yard sale that’s been sitting in the garage for the past 40 years? Although honestly, that probably won’t do the trick either…I’ve heard with lawnmower engines if you have an engine that hasn’t had frequent oil changes and you throw synthetic in it’ll loosen up a crap load of sludge and lunch the engine, but I’m guessing that you actually take care of your engine so that’s out…:+1:



Thanks to all of you for your input on my lawn mower situation. The problem in our household is that I hate to mow and Mrs.Triedaq loves to mow. However, Mrs. Triedaq has had two foot surgeries and two rotator cuff surgeries and shouldn’t be pushing a lawnmower. I bought our mower back in 1988 for about $200. I have emphasized to Mrs. Triedaq that a mower is a delicate and expensive piece of equipment and I don’t trust her to treat it properly.


I just don’t know what to tell you. You used the worst oil and it still keeps running. You’re maybe gonna have to drain some out or get some of that outdated stuff at the dollar store. Maybe water it down with some kerosene or something so it looks like it’s full. Or maybe it’s just time to hire someone.


Yard big enough to justify a riding lawn mower?


@bravesfan314. Our lawn isn’t big enough to justify a riding mower. I thought a good.solution might be a self propelled mower with an electric start, but my wife didn’t like the idea–says pushing the mower is.good exercise. The mower is.an 18" with a.cast aluminum deck. Apparently, the.product safety commission no longer allows this type of mower deck. Also, the engine is.a.Tecumseh which is no longer being manufactured. I did buy a used Black and.Decker rechargeable battery mower that has a plastic deck, but it is.heavier.to push.with the.weight of the batteries than our gasoline mower. Our.compromise is.that Mrs. Triedaq mows the.back yard which is smaller with the gasoline mower and I mowthe front yard with the battery powered mower. I.keep the gasoline mower in good shape so.It starts on.the first pull. To keep this oil related, I use 10W-30 synthetic oil in the mower from Rural King that costs $2.69 a quart.


That’s a tricky situation…you could try to tell that (from my humble experiences) you do not loose any exercise when using a self propelled mower. I will note, though, my yard is also extremely hilly as I live on the side of a mountain.


The problem with a Tecumseh engine is that they will pretty much run forever, UNLESS (hint), the oil level gets low. Then they will throw a rod and destroy themselves.


@Bing. You hit my problem. Everything we own seems to last forever. I hate to update with something new when the old device still functions well. I can’t stand to neglect a machine by not doing the proper maintenance. All our major equipment-- lawnmower, washer and dryer, dishwasher, refrigerator, etc. Is at least 25 years old. Of course, what will probably happen is that all our equipment will hand in their resignations at the same time.