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Purolator oil filters

Not sure if everyone knows but I was in wally world this week and they stopped selling the Super Tech oil filters and have replaced them with purolator filters. They are 3.27 (at least for my camry and accord). Not bad since the ST’s were 2.86 and the name brand is 3.27 ( I think both are good filters). The nice thing for me is that the ST’s only came in 4967 which fit the 1994’s and the next model years (1997-2001) but for the 2002 and 2006, I need the slightly larger one per replacement (ie. fram 4386 or pur 14477). so, I thought you’d want to know as they are cheaper than the autozone or advanced auto prices.

Wally world is pretty much cheaper on all auto parts they sell when compared to the auto parts store. They have volume buying power other chains can only dream of. They are also cheaper on spark plugs, air filters, fluids, and accessories, although they lose on selection. If your car does not use a very common filter or spark plug, you will not find it stocked at the wally mart.

I have used Supertech and purolators and fram. I buy anything that is on sale. So far no engine failures.

Someone took the time to cut apart a lot of different filters and analyze them. Not that Supertech is necessarily a terrible filter, but it doesn’t seem as well made as the Purolators are anyway. The base Frams are very cheaply made.

When I owned Hondas I used Honda filters.
I know Honda didn’t actually make them, but it eliminated a lot of uncertainty.
Online they cost ~$5. Worth a couple of extra bucks to me.
Back in the early '80s I had a Fram filter leak at the seam.
I was 700 miles from home checking out my 1975 Civic before the return drive.
I replaced it with something else I got at an Auto store for the return.
And that was the last time I used a non-OEM oil filter.

Someone took the time to cut apart a lot of different filters and analyze them.

And taking apart a filter and looking at it means NOTHING. It tells you SQUAT. Doesn’t tell you how well the oil will flow or how well it’ll filter. One filter may use more material…but that material may be inferior to other material…so more is needed just to equal what the material in other filters are doing. Fram gets a bad rep from this type of analysis…If Fram was so bad…then we’d see tens of thousands of engines failing every year since Fram outsells their 5 highest competitors COMBINED. The science of these type of analysis is right up there with TAPS.

I agree with MikeInNH’s entire post. Eyeballing a filter that someone has cut apart on the picnic table in the back yard (as someone actually did and posted their findings on the net) means zilch.

For what it’s worth, I’ve used ST filters for decades and have never seen or heard of a problem caused by the use of those filters. Since most of my vehicles usually get 300-400k miles before being retired it would seem to me that if ST filters were even mildly inferior those engines would never last that long.

I am not a big fan of WalMart and avoid it when possible.

I have been using Purolator filters forever as they have been a standard stock filter at Advance AP & included in many of their oil change specials. I’ve never had a problem with any of them.

Over the last year or so, though I’ve been buying oil in bulk from a local dealer - just refilling the same jugs over and over. So I’m not buying “oil change specials.” I just pick up filters separately, usually when I’m at an AP store getting other things. The last one I bought was at NAPA - it was a $2.99 filter and the first thing I looked at was who made it. Its made by Wix and is identical to a Wix branded filter. I figure that for $3 that’s what I will just keep using.

I’ve never used Super Tech filters…Lately I’ve been using Wix…because the local parts store lets me buy them by the Case for about $4 each. But I suspect that Purolator is probably as good as Wix or Fram or Sper Tech…or pick your brand.

The last one I bought was at NAPA - it was a $2.99 filter and the first thing I looked at was who made it.

NAPA prices must have gone down…Because last I checked their NAPA Gold (same as the Wix) was selling for $7. If it’s only $2.99…then I’ll start buying them there. That’s cheaper then what I can buy them in bulk at my local parts dealer (Sanel Brothers).

I don’t think it was “gold” - it was whatever the standard level is (or maybe that is gold?)

It also could have been on sale. The way I buy them now, its because I’m already there for other stuff. So it becomes, “oh yeah, I also need to throw in an oil filter for…” I typically don’t pay attention to price. In fact, this time I figured it out later when I happened to look at the receipt. I was pretty surprised too.

I’m not saying the cheaper filters won’t filter your oil, but saying that analyzing the construction of them ‘doesn’t mean squat’ is a bit excessive. You can certainly see the build quality differences and the differences in materials used. While you personally may never have had an oil filter fail, it’s pretty hard to argue that the ones that use better materials are likely to have less of a failure rate. And a filter with no anti-drainback valve is just cheap garbage. Geez, break out your wallet and spend an extra $1-$2 for a better filter. It’s going to cost you what, the price of a fast food meal over the course of a year?

My old car has a cold startup rattle when sitting overnight if I use a Fram filter. When I switched to Wix, the problem went away.

You can certainly see the build quality differences and the differences in materials used.

You have NO idea how good those materials are until you use them. Looking at them doesn’t tell you well it’s going to filter…how many microns it filters down to…how well it’ll hold up. Sorry…but I still don’t buy it.

One of the biggest complaints against the Fram was lack of anti-drain back valve…The person who cut open the Fram filter used a Fram filter (purposely) for a specific vehicle…where the filter was mounted inversely. Guess what…when a filter is mounted inversely…you don’t need a anti-drain back valve…The oil drains INTO the filter…But open a Fram filter that’s designed for and engine that’s NOT mounted inversely…you’ll find a anti-drain back valve.

Geez, break out your wallet and spend an extra $1-$2 for a better filter

Show me why it’s needed. I’ve owned 4 vehicles with well over 300k miles using the so-called “Cheap” filters…NEVER EVER had one problem…And as I said earlier…if there was a design problem…we’d be seeing TENS OF THOUSANDS of engines dying every year.

At some point in my driving career I’ve probably used nearly every brand filter I’ve ever seen on the market. I always buy whatever I can buy the cheapest. I currently have about 60 oil filters of multiple brands in the garage for my 5 Escorts that I’ve found at flea markets, yard sales, and store close outs that have been bought for $1 each or less and have never had problems with any brand I’ve used. I suspect that if a filter causes damage to the engine it’s not because of the brand, but a defect of the filter in manufacturing which is possible with any manufacturer.

Would like to invert this question, just to see if anyone can respond. Has anyone experienced or seen an engine failure due to oil filter failure? If so, what were the specifics? Everyone seems to say they’ve never had a problem even with cheap filters. If that’s the case, it seems no filter has ever failed, ever. I’d really like to know if cases that disprove the rule.

I have. But it was on a racing engine. My neighbor just spent 7 grand on an engine and forgot to get an oil filter for it. He stopped into wally world and got a fram and went to the track. The fram opened up like a sardine can when subjected to the oil pressure from the racing engine.

Keep in mind, the fram he used was not designed for a racing engine and fram does make oil filters that are oem in Ferarri. They probably make one for his engine too, but you won’t find it a wally world.

I’m a bit disappointed that Walton’s is no longer selling the Super Tech filters. I’ve been using them for years. I’d like to know what filter doesn’t have an anti-drainback valve. Every oil filter i’ve ever seen, regardless of brand, has an anti-drainback valve if it is part of the design.

Millions of divers change their oil at Jiffy lube and other chains and most of the filters used don’t even have a name sticker on them. I think pretty much any filter sold today that is designed for one’s car would do the job, provided that it is installed properly.

all I"m saying is that the WMT in Winston Salem, NC didn’t have ST oil filters anymore. When I was in WMT in SC just south of charlotte, I talked to the auto parts manager and told him about the issue with stocking a ST-4386 for the 2005 camry but said they (listing) says use the ST-4967 and it works. Not sure if other WMT’s are done with ST but I’d assume so. also, I’ve posted many years ago that I was going to buy PBY’s (pep boy brand) of oil filter and looked at the plate and the holes (most of them) weren’t drilled through. Maybe 1-2 were open if that and the rest were closed. Not sure if my engine would die but it would definately go into bypass mode. So there are some filters that might have defects in them. Hope I don’t extentd this thread into the odds of that happening. LOL