Power sterring pump replacement

I’m a little mechanically inclined and I’m told I need to replace my power steering pump on my '93 Grand Cherokee with a straight 6. Is this something a weekend warrior can tackle?

Sure. Do you have a good set of wrenches and sockets? You should first look at the pump to see how accessible all the connections and securing nuts and bolts are. That can be a pain. It might be worth getting a set of ‘line wrenches’ (I use Craftsman) that are made to get a better grip on the hydraulic fitting nuts than a regular open end wrench. Just disconnect everything, draining the fluid into a pan, replace the pump, hook everything up, refill with fresh correct fluid, run the car and turn the wheel full left and right a few times, stop the engine and top off. Repeat once to make sure you have the right amount of fluid.

Thanks! is there a drain plug I should watch out for or just let it drain once I remove the old one?

I doubt there’s a drain plug. You can use a turkey baster to get much of the fluid out of the reservoir beforehand.

Question-why the pump replacement? If internal parts have failed, might there be contamination of the system? I’d hate to ruin a new pump with metal particles leftover from the old one!

I think a '93 will have a GM pump with an integral steel reservoir. When you remove the return hose the fluid will drain out…I would change both hoses too…Unless they have been run dry, those pumps usually last forever…

Here is the link to the Autozone Repair guide to replace the PS pump. You may have to register to view the link.


Good luck,

Ed B.

Good Question. A few months ago I noticed a new “Whining” that wasn’t there before. I took it to my mechanic who first tried to tell me it was cuz it’s an old car. Well after I took him for a ride, he got out popped the hood and removed the cap to the power steering and said give a listen…that’s where it’s coming from…you need to replace it"

then he said that it would be $300 to replace…I know the part is about $65 so there you go.

I’m afraid I’m not car savvy enough to say if there are any metal particles left…My Mechanic did say that if it wasn’t replaced it could lead to bigger Gear box problems

Man…do I need to worry about all tightening to exact torque poundage?

Be sure to flush out the system to remove possible particle contamination. Have the return hose disconnected from the pump into a catch bucket and put new fluid into the pump while running to force out sufficient quantity of old fluid.

If it has a press on pulley that needs pulled from the old and installed on the new…DO NOT HAMMER OR POUND THE PULLEY ON. Use the installation tool that should come with the new pump or rent one.
If you hammer it on ( as waaay too many d.i.y. have ) you will pound the main shaft right out the back of the pump or crack the rear housing.

d.i.y.; "The pump you sold me is defective, it leaks right back here "

store; “You broke the housing hammering on the pulley. This is not a defect, you have to buy another one.”

d.i.y. …( silence )… " oh ssh "

If you want the repair to last, and not fail on you, you will want to invest in a torque wrench. A good tool collection is a wise investment if you decide to do other DIY repairs.

I would try flushing the fluid, then giving it 2 ounces of STP and see how it sounds then…

Just so he knows, you mean flush the old one, and try the STP, not the new one, like KG’s talking about.