Power outlet

My power outlet that runs off the battery in my 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan stopped working. The manual says it has a circuit breaker. The fuses are not blown. Disconnecting the negative battery cable did not work. There is no power in the outlet when tested with a voltage meter. When I use the ignition powered outlet located directly above the dead outlet, after driving for about 10 minutes the battery light comes on in the dash. Where can I find the circuit breaker and how can I solve this problem?

What are you using the outlet for?? If you ask for more than 15 amps, you are not going to get it…Circuit breakers, when used, are usually located in or near the fuse block…

The power ports are supplied voltage thru the Integrated Power Module.

The IPM contains a 10 amp fuse and an accessory relay that supplies power to the power ports. More than likely there’s a problem with the IPM.


Thanks. I’ve checked the fuses in the fuse box and none are blown. I’ve even replaced the suspected fuses with new ones and that didn’t work. This particular outlet is powered by the battery and the manual states it has a circuit breaker which trips before the battery is drained. This seems to be what happened. The breaker is supposed to reset itself but it obviously hasn’t. I don’t know where this circuit breaker is. I’ve tried disconnecting the negative battery terminal so that would reset it. Didn’t work.

I took it to the Dodge dealer and the person there has no idea what I was talking about.

The circuit diagram I’m looking at doesn’t show a circuit breaker.

Circuit breakers don’t prevent a battery from draining down. They protect the circuit by tripping if too much current tries to pass thru the circuit.


This is copied from the manual: The outlets include tethered caps labeled with a key or battery symbol indicating the power source. The lower
instrument panel outlet is powered directly from the battery, items plugged into this outlet may discharge the battery and/or prevent engine starting.
The lower outlet is protected by an automatic reset circuit breaker. The automatic circuit breaker restores power when the overload is removed.

The front power outlet is powered by PTC #7 in the IPM (under hood fuse box). PTCs (positive temperature coefficient resistor) normally return to normal after cooling but a continuous short may cause it to fail. You might open the IPM and try to solder in a new PTC but they were not intended to be serviceable.

An easy solution would be to connect an inline fuse holder to a power source under the hood and run a new wire to your power outlet.

Thanks so much although I am sorry to hear there doesn’t seem to be an easy to solution to what seems to be a small problem. I wouldn’t have a clue how to connect an inline fuse holder to a power source so I guess this is the end of the road for repairing the problem. I may have to buy a portable charging system.

Can’t you use one of the other sockets? Lighter or console socket?

I found something that indicates that the socket may also be protected by fuse #5 (20Amp) in the IPM. If correct, this would protect the PTC in the event of a continuous short. I would at least open up the fuse box and check fuse #5.

Thanks TwinTurbo. I have already checked all 20 amp fuses in the fuse box or IPM. I believe those fuses are connected to the two other outlets which are supplied power through the ignition.

Thanks Nevada. I can certainly use the one in the middle of the van but this isn’t very convenient when I’m driving. When I plug something into the other outlet in the front which is powered through the ignition but the battery light indicator comes up on the dash after driving for awhile which scares me so I won’t use it. I think what ever happened to the battery powered power outlet effected the ignition powered one in the front. Their wires are taped together. I’ve looked under the dash and as much as I can see under the hood for a burnt wire but no luck.