It depends on the transmission what % get changed. Let say it’s 50%. That means you’re getting new additives, etc. at least 50% good as new. Unless there’s a major problem, the reason to change the fluid is not because it contains dangerous chemicals, it’s because the additives have been exhausted. Periodic changes, even if it’s only 50%, keeps the additive levels up.
Okay, that makes sense. I’m going to get the transmission fluid changed since it’s been 3 years since it was done.
I’m not sure about flushing it, though. The dealerships will usually tell you to do everything, but they didn’t want to flush my high-mileage transmission. That sure got my attention!
You and they are right, don’t flush it, just change it.
Flushing will not hurt the transmission IF the pan is dropped and cleaned first. (which should be done with every transmission fluid change)
The issue is that many places (in the interest of speed, with speed meaning money) flush the transmission without dropping the pan and cleaning it.
Flushing is fairly quick and simple; pan drops are a bit more time consuming and nasty. So where do you think the money lies?
While it’s not recommended by anyone I feel that valve lash should be inspected every 30k miles and this is true of not only Subaru but any vehicle with mechanical valve lifters. (Honda is another example) The purpose of inspections is to make sure that one doesn’t have a serious problem developing and at one time Subaru used to strongly recommend inspecting valve lash every 15k miles. Ask yourself why they changed their policy. It’s for PR purposes because they know that any problem that develops will likely occur after the warranty is expired and by then they flat don’t care.
For what it’s worth, we had a Subaru into the shop once that suffered burnt valves due to improper lash and it was so bad that neither cylinder head was even rebuildable.
The mileage on this car? A whopping 7k miles and warranty would not pay for it because the owner neglected to have the lash inspected at the 1k miles mark; something that Subaru used to recommend and even paid for. The bean counters at work…
That info helps a lot.
So what’s involved in inspecting valve lash? Cost estimate?
Christies, I think some clarification is in order. Original equipment spark plugs come with basically three different center electrods: copper (pretty much obsolete now), platinum, and irridium. Some have alloys of these metsls. I’ve attached a link for better clarification.
The spark plugs that were recommened to you (based on your link) were not direct replacements for the original plugs. They were “gimmick” spark plugs. What you want to use is original equipment replacement plugs, exactly what’s listed in the parts list as OEM plugs for your car. Those will be platinum ips without gimmicks. NGK plugs are excellent. Any “gimmick” plug may come with tradeoffs and even cause operating problems.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us30428.htm
Direct OEM replacement plugs will cost you about $3-$4 each.
And I agree with the recommendations to get a new mechanic.
I’m not joking, I questioned it being the first tuneup because;
1 - they didn’t say.
2 - With what I’ve seen in THIS shop ( Ford dealer, Gallup New Mexico ), with my customers’ history and at merely 144k it is, in fact, VERY - VERY real to assume it IS the first tuneup .
3 - IF it’s the first tuneup, stick with the proven and stop questioning.
It’s difficult to give an estimate on adjusting valve lash as labor rates vary so much by different parts of the country, how closely a flat rate book is followed, etc.
When I worked for Subaru we used to get 1 or 1.5 hours labor time, depending on model.
Shim and bucket adjuster models were more.
It’s not a difficult process after it’s done a number of times and with the special adjustment tool in hand.
I know full well that car makers and many individuals disagree with the premise of checking lash every 30k miles so my opinion is quite a bit at odds with others. Do a net search about Honda CR-Vs and Odyssey models in which the same misguided extended interval is also recommended and you will find that a number of those owners have discovered the hard way what tight valve lash can do.
If there is one thing about this issue that really twists me to no end it’s the recommendation that valve lash can be inspected “audibly”. That is an even bigger bunch of BS than the extended interval recommendation. That recommendation just flat astounds me and there is zero logic behind it.
Is it best to have a Subaru mechanic do it?
Well, it certainly needs to be a mechanic with good experience with Subarus.
My current mechanic works on the cars for everyone at my temple (about 40). No one has had a problem with him and everyone’s cars are doing great. (Only one person has had a major car problem–blew a head gasket–because she never got routine maintenance done.)
I thought that was a good way to find a mechanic. No?
The principles behind adjusting valves is the same no matter who makes the car. A competent mechanic should be able to perform this task.
Having the proper special tool helps but it’s not absolutely necessary. It speeds the process up is all.
As I said, the vast majority of people won’t have a problem with their cars even if they skip this procedure. The issue is with the unlucky smaller percentage who gamble and lose.
I don’t play the lottery, visit casinos, or wager on ball games so I’m definitely not a gambling man and choose to always play it safe.
I wouldn’t drop your mechanic, as long as he’s willing to skip putting in those expensive spark plugs. He sure seems to have earned your trust. Ask him how much experience he has adjusting valves. He may, or he may not.
ChristieH1…I totally agree it’s mitzvah to use this particular mechanic.
However, you must be aware that this might come with a tradeoff. Today’s modern cars are VERY complex electromechanical devices-they even contain a couple of computers. They are-at the very least, a degree of magnitude more complex than cars from 30-40 years ago. When you add to that, the so many more brands and models existing in the marketplace today, things are getting really convoluted.
Sometimes, a single “general-practitioner” technician cannot tackle all that’s required to fully service all brands and models of cars out there. Sometimes, it’s best to seek a specialized technician, especially when you own a Subaru.
Given the advice this mechanic gave you about the plugs and transmission, I would be inclined to search for a new, Subaru-specialized technician.
Another good way to find a mechanic for your Subbie is to use the CarTalk “Mechanics File” section-see linky below. Alternatively, sign up on one or two of the more popular Subaru Forums out there, and ask around.
You folks are great. I really appreciate all your help and advice. I think I’ll look for a good Subaru mechanic for the more involved Subaru stuff and keep this guy for the straightforward issues. (Thanks for the tip about CarTalk Mechanics–never saw that!) I’m also going to find a Subaru forum.
I did have to giggle at the use of “mitzvah.” You probably thought I was Jewish because I mentioned our temple. Actually, I go to a Buddhist temple (I’m a Buddhist nun) and had to look up the meaning of mitzvah!
Thanks for all your help-- good karma. 
Subaru said it needs the expensive plugs.
No way. You must have misunderstood what you mechanic said.
Subaru does not call for Pulstar etc.
Otherwise I think your mechanic means well but maybe hasn’t had the proper training.
I think some clarification to your clarification is in order. There seems to be something that every single person has missed on here so far, which is surprising, given the number of professional service technicians.
There are two types of Platinum spark plugs - the regular platinum tipped, and the laser platinum tipped. The regular platinum tipped are what have been used for the last 15+ years on many cars, and usually don’t cost more than $3-4 each. It is the laser tipped platinum spark plugs that cost upwards of $10 each, and are a relatively new innovation.
Now I can’t speak for the Subarus, but a friend’s Nissan Maxima that I just did the plugs on called specifically for the Laser platinum tipped plugs, which did run $10/each at O’Reilly’s. And to all of the naysayers, you can use the regular platinum plugs in place of the laser platinum for a substantial cost savings. Just be ready to change them again in 30k miles vs. 100k miles for the laser platinum.
Aha! Mystery solved. Thank you!
I also noticed that at least one car parts website that asks for the specific yr/make/model said the “exact match” for my car was the $24 platinum plugs.
It was only the owner’s manual that said otherwise. When I had asked my mechanic how much a tune-up was, he looked at something online. I bet it was the same as what I found.
Do the regular platinum plugs have he same part number as the laser plugs? I don’t think so.
If you use the same brand and part number as recommended by the car maker you can’t go wrong.
The plugs that can up on the auto parts search don’t match the ones in the owner’s manual. I’m definitely going to stick to the ones recommended in the manual–like you said, can’t go wrong with those!