Piston and 60 bore chevy 350

That should be fine. The rings will never touch it.

thats good to here thanks mark9207

The rings won’t touch the broken wall but the piston skirt will and it might be worthwhile to chamfer down the sharp edge just to play it safe.

would i have to take it to a shop to get that done

I predict that a year from now, this story is going to have a sad ending…But Frost, you will have learned a lot…

I think I’d at least grind the edge off of that nick to make it smooth and less likely to be a source of cracks.

But I’m with Caddyman, I think this block is headed for trouble.

Since you’ve already spent the money, you might as well put it all together and see how it does. It may run for years and years.

If you have any further problems though, I’d just get another 350 from a boneyard. Chevy 350s are so common that you should be able to find one just about anywhere for cheap.

so should i grind a half moon shap into it like the pix

so should i grind a half moon shap into it like the pix

I’d try to make the break no bigger than necessary, definitely no deeper than it already is, but basically, yes. something like you’ve drawn in that pic. And keep the edges clean, not ragged like they are now.

But I still think this block is a bad bet. I’d cut my losses at this point and find another block. The junkyards are full of small block Chevy’s that don’t need to be bored .060 over and aren’t broken.

Maybe I missed it, but what is the engine in? For most light and medium duty applications a 305 has more than adequate power and often at much more economical fuel mileage. I have had great customer satisfaction with 305s built with an RV camshaft.

ok how is this, and yea the engine will be in a 81 malibu, it a 93 truck engine.

or should i round both edges 2?

Make sure ALL corners and edges are rounded.

You want to grind it until it is a certain minimum thickness at the narrow point. Unfortunately I don’t know what that is for cast iron. I know for cast aluminum (319 alloy) it is 3.5mm but I don’t think it is that thick for cast iron. Anything less than the minimum and the block will tend to crack from that point. All edges must be smooth so that there are no stress points for a crack to start in.

Sure grind it off if it makes you feel better…the piston skirt doesnt come that far down anywho…so it really shouldnt come into play here…you will see when you drop the crank and all con rods and pistons in…then do a rotation or two and see if its an issue… If you ground that off it certainly wont be an issue…but I bet its not an issue at the moment and wont be later either…but if I’m incorrect…WHich DOES HAPPEN sometimes…LOL…thats what a grinder or dremel was made for my man…

Blackbird

lol, yea smoothed it out which does make me feel better lol with a dremel and its now painted waiting on my piston to get done tomorrow so i can finish building it and also gathering a little more info on the cam bearing oil holes positions and number 1 since it has 2 holes.

i’ve heard, 2 through 5 should be at the 2-3 or 3-4 o’clock positions and number 1 at 11 and 1 o’clock position this is with the engine right side up

I would strongly recommend pricing a 305 ci block. Customers have been very pleased with the performance and fuel mileage of the smaller engine in light duty applications such as yours. And the RV cams seem to improve performance at normal operating RPMs. They seem to beat the V-6 in fuel mileage on cars similar to yours.