Chevy 350 cylinder wall

is my cylinder wall bad or good, or do i need to get it honed or bored, its bored over .040 right now as it sits.
will i need new valves guides and seals
and rod bearings.

thanks for any help.

her are pix’s there’s always oil on the number one spark plug, andlow compresion on that cylinder aswell 90 other are 130-135. cant remember witch piston is the number one also the ring that in there is not flat yet so the gap is alittle big lookin

and here are some pix’s of the valve guide and witch were also leakin when i pored fluid in them same cylinder number 1

these are 193 tbi heads, swirl port

here are the other valves on that head, number 7 is a little wet but not like number 7. and the exhaust pipe was smashed by whoever installed it. and i took pix’s of the bearings from number one piston rod since i pulled it here are picks

You tell us. You are the one who can actually feel and measure the parts.

It just looks like an old 350 with some miles on it to me. You say you have poor compression on at least one cylinder. I can’t tell much looking at the pictures. 350s are so plentiful and there’s so many aftermarket parts and rebuild kits out there that it doesn’t make sense to me to reuse any of it, including the block if there’s any doubt, especially since it’s already been bored once. At the least you would likely need new rings and I wouldn’t reuse any of the bearings. And the cam may be somewhat worn as well for all we know.

If you can actually FEEL scars or groves…then there’s a problem. But touch it NOT the way to tell. If you’re concerned at all…take it to a machine shop. They have equipment that is far more accurate and can tell you what needs to be done. If anything take it there to get the block cleaned and then have them hone the cylinder walls smooth.

With all the above being said, if the block has already had a .040 over bore you may be about to the end of its life. I believe that .060 is MAX over bore on that motor, and if you do have scored walls, you probably will not be able to get them out and stay at or under the Max overbore. Anymore and you risk cooling issues, and weak cylinder walls.

That looks real sad. Ask the machine shop what they can do. It may need a sleeve or two. And that header is trash now.

Do your self a BIG favor and shovel all this scrap metal into a barrel and buy yourself a nice GM crate motor. You will spend less money and in the end, have a MUCH better engine…There are online GM parts dealers who will sell you a crate engine at a deep discount. Sometimes local dealers will discount them too…

Depending on your final goal here, I too think you’d be better either replacing this with a crate engine, rebuilding a boneyard engine and swapping it out, or just installing a boneyard engine.

I have to comment that I almost fell out of my chair when I saw the photos pf the exhaust header. I’ve never seen a pipe squashed like that. The previous owner definitely wasn;t getting the full value out of the overbore.

Is 200hp enough?

If not…

While a crate motor may be the cheapest and best way to go…

Rebuilding an engine has it’s rewards too. Some people just like to do that kinda stuff. I know a guy that owns a bunch of antique cars (about 20 in all). Some have been converted to hot-rods. Others are stock. But he LOVES to restore them himself. He LOVES rebuilding the engines himself. He’s retired and has the time. He usually takes on a new project in the fall…then by winter the engine is pulled and he starts disassembling it. By January he’s well in the rebuild. Takes his time…replaces parts when needed. Usually ready to put the motor back in by April. Says if he bought a crate motor he’d have nothing to do during the winter. He likes to finish by April in time for Golf.

At those prices it’s not worth it to save that bucket of bolts. I called the local machine shop for some ball park prices and $1,600 is a bargain for a crate small block Chevy.

Frost 1085 does not have much to work with…

Is this that pretty green Malibu with the supposedly rebuilt engine in it? If so, I’d say somebody lied.

Those cylinder walls do not look like they will clean up with a hone, there’s enough coked oil on the valve stems to show that the valve seals are bad (on a new motor?) or the guides are worn out, and as to the crank bearings that’s impossible to tell from pics. The 2 bearing shells you show look good but there’s also the side issue of the engine block possibly needing to be line bored and the exact measurements of the crankshaft journals.

From the looks of things, mostly the block, I’d deep six it and start from scratch. If it were my car it would get a big block; probably a 454. With footwork you can find a complete running BB for a reasonable price and even if it’s a smog era motor those can be perked up quite a bit with a camshaft change and a little cylinder head work; assuming youre not happy with power output as it came from the factory. Those things have a lot of grunt, smog era or not.

ok the walls were really worn they had to be bored all the way to 60. and one of the valves had to be replaced it was bent. i think it was the intake valve. im now in the process of rebuiling it. i have to waite tell monday to start becouse i still need the rods to be swapped over. thanks for all your help

Thanks for the advice, but NO THANKS, HU?

lol, nah i appreciate all the help people give online, especially when everything is closed plus i dont got tomany place here that i trust for info lol.