Over heated, changed head, runs funny help ASAP

2011 mitsubishi eclipse 2.4, 4 cylinder. i blew the engine, water was coming out of the exhaust. replaced radiator (overheating starter), all of my gaskets, and my head. no more water out of the exhaust. its struggling hard. when it idles it goes from almost dying to 1k RPMs. it has the normal deep sound when idling but when i rev it it has a very slight whiney sound. it studders on start up. oil looked like liquid peanut butter so i changed it, ran the car for a few minutes, changed it again, and its still having a hard time. i need to get back to work on thursday its been 2 weeks. ask when you need to know and ill reply i need answers cuz at this point im clueless

If the oil looked like peanut butter after replacing the head and everything else, then there’s still a coolant leak into the oil.

The block my have cracked when the engine was first overheated.

From what you’re describing, it sounds like you should be looking for a replacement vehicle.

Tester

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its clearing up, the peanut butter is going away. its all just remnants from before the replacement. after about half an hour of the car running i checked my dipstick and it looks good. sorry i didnt clarify the aftermath.

The crankshaft bearings may have been damaged from water in the oil, that may explain the noise.

For the surging check for air leaks between the air cleaner/mass air flow sensor and the throttle body. Recheck the cam timing.

there are no crankshaft bearings, i know “what?” but there are none. im thinking it may be the timing but to be honest i dont know all of the effects of the timing being off a tooth or two so i wouldnt know what to look for.

There are no camshaft bearings, that must be what you meant to write. There are crankshaft bearings, it is unknown if you have damage in the bottom end, where is the noise coming from?

If the engine won’t run properly check the cam/crank timing marks.

i cant tell where the sound is coming from other than obviously engine compartment. im thinking it may be timing but im just seeing if there are other possibilities and what the effects of a slightly off timing would cause.

Not possible.
The bearings are “sleeve bearings”", half-pipes that capture the crankshaft, designed to be “sacrificial” (softer material than the crankshaft). Oil is forced by the pump through channels in the crankshaft and between the bearings and the crankshaft’s corresponding surfaces, creating a pressurized fluid barrier. Water in the oil can severely compromise that barrier, allowing the metal surfaces to rub and damage the sleeve bearings. Remember that the crankshaft is spinning thousand of revolutions every minute, resulting in quick bearing destruction if the fluid barrier is compromised.

Honestly, the amount of damage that the original problem could have resulted in combined with the many possibilities introduced when the heads were changed create too many possibilities to enable good diagnosis over the internet. The cam timing needs to be checked, the source of the sound needs to be heard by someone who can determine whether it’s coming from the “bottom end” (crank bearings), compression needs to be checked (that would catch a cracked block or an improperly installed head, improper valvelash, stuff like that). I really think this needs to be looked at hands-on by a competent shop. Once a diagnosis is done, you can decide the best route to proceed.

yea i realized after he replied, i ment no camshaft bearings.

I agree with the same mountainbike; a compression check needs to be run. That is the simplest way at this point of determining whether or not you need to look for another engine or another car.

When an engine overheats to the point that coolant is mixing with the motor oil and the overheating has gone on for a bit it’s quite possible the piston rings and cylinder walls are gone.
That’s on top of the previously mentioned engine noises due to motor oil dilution.

A compression test will give you an idea of what shape the top end is in. An Eclipse engine in very good condition should show about 190 PSI on all cylinders.