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Out the door price of a Nissan Rogue... PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP US!

First time car buyer!

First off, we’re looking at a Nissan Rogue, 2010 standard, good condition, 25,000 miles, no accident, and being offered 15,500 - would oyu consider this a good deal, even if it’s not much below their printed price?

Also, we’ve called a lot of dealers on these cars, and not getting call backs for a two thousand dollar difference in price (for instance we see online for 15,000.00, make an offer for 13,000 out the door)… are we being unreasonable? Or are cars really being listed so much cheaper to battle for the best online price? We’re hopefully getting a new vehicle this week and would like your thoughts on:

1 - what would you pay and feel comfortable was a good deal
2 - what is reasonable difference in listed versus what they will sell for?

Thank you!

Rather than worrying about what someone else may pay for a car, just worry about what YOU end up paying.

There are a number of possible ideas.

The last time I bought a car, was also the easiest.

I first decided what car I wanted (I was shopping for a new car) then I chose five dealers. I told each one the exact same thing. I wanted a 2002 VW NB new. I am going to buy it from the dealer with the best price. I ended up with the closest dealer and I don’t know way, but the dealer knocked off a few hundred dollars AFTER I had agreed to the higher price. He just smiled at me when I pointed that out.

I strongly suggest that you not let them anywhere near you keys. Get the deal set first before they get control of your car, or they will kill the rest of the day getting you stuck there while they have your key.

There are flooded cars around too that you must be skeptical about. Be sure and google “how to inspect a car for water damage” and body damage that can get past any claims to the contrary. Never put an offer in on a used car you cannot inspect and drive. Yes, good offers ARE often too good to be true. Remember too, these are “used” cars with no flat sale price as location and condition mean a lot. For example, one owned by a heavy smoker could command less, or in excellent pre turn in condition, more. If the dealer had to add new tires, battery etc… So, without knowing the past history, 15,500 could be a good price or poor depending on a lot of things that can only be determined by inspection.

You can research prices on Edmunds.com. Small cars are in pretty good demand right now. If the Rogue is a popular model, dealers won’t deal on price as much.

When you put your out the door price to the dealer on the internet be sure to mention that you have the cash in hand and can close the deal quickly. You might have better luck as the end of the month approaches.

If no one is calling you back, either they don’t feel you are making a serious offer or the price is too low to gain their attention.

If the condition is outstanding, Edmunds thinks it’s worth a little under $17,000. This is top dollar because it is on a dealer’s lot and in outstanding condition, as a 2010 at the dealer should be. So $15,500 is already a good price. $13,000 is unrealistically low, even as a start for negotiations. BTW, never talk price first. Look the car over well, test drive it, and let the seller start the discussions. You can mention any issues you find, even exterior or interior color choices. You still might buy it even though it isn’t perfect. But only if the price is right.

You are buying used transportation…Shop for the best VALUE for your money…If you lock yourself into one specific, trendy, youth oriented model, you will pay top dollar and not get the best VALUE for your money…With many car buyers, what they NEED and what they WANT are two completely different things which can cost them a lot of money…I’m always suspicious of two year old low mileage vehicles…Most leases are for 3 years, not 2…I would have a body shop check it for repaired collision damage (don’t rely on CarFax for this information) before I gave them $15K for it…

All good comments. I would add that Nissan is running a special on new cars, so check the price on the new ones too. Could be easily done in your PJ’s through edmunds and truecar. Sometimes buying new actually saves you more money (& headache) especially if you are going to finance, the rates are always lower on the new cars.

There’s no way of knowing if this car is a good deal or not. If it was a lease vehicle that had the oil changed one time, or never, then fleeing in terror is the best option.

It won’t be long before the 2014 models are out so that will make it 4 model years old and that will place a financial hit on it to some degree.

There seems to be a lot of emphasis on the price when it should be on the history of the car and how it was maintained; if at all.

I can’t remember it ever taking more than an hour or two to come to an agreement on a car. I usually have an idea of what is fair or not and if we come close, pull the trigger, and if not walk away. All I have to say is that in this environment of Sandy cars, limited used supply, and good deals on new cars, I’d first look at what I could do with a brand new one with a 3-5 year warranty.