Michael, I’m assuming this is the 5.7 with the dizzy mounted to the front of the block. The workshop manual doesn’t mention water pump removal, just the power steering pump.
Scudder:
Yes the distributor is on the front of the block. There is no room to get to the cap bolts with out removing the water pump. If you want to see the removal process check out the link hellokit posted. You only need to remove the power steering pump if you are changing wires.
~Michael
OP, I’ve seen enough on this board to know that Dartman is very qualified and honest. Everything he has told you is true; from the bit about not leaving plugs in for a 100k miles, it being a must to change the water pump and flush the cooling system, to the fuel filter never being changed.
I would be willing to bet here and now that your car is going to suffer an early fuel pump failure due to failure to change the filter on a regular basis.
This is a good example of why I always state that most problems are owner inflicted. It always reminds me of that old TV commercial years ago about Fram filters; “You can pay me now or pay me later”.
We are strongly recommending posters with problems to describe their vehicle and problem in as much detail as possible, including past maintenance performed. Regardless of what the manufacturer says, a number of maintenance items (such as cooling sytem service) should be done more often. We now have the rediculous situation where 100,000 mile coolant is put in radiators with a life expectancy of less than that. My wife’s Nissan Sentra had a rad failure within the warranty period, but short of the coolant’s life. This same rad failed again at 55,000 miles with long life coolant in it. No warranty this time. The replacement rad failed at 20,000 miles, and my mechanic is getting an “adjustment” from his supplier.
Appreciate your post giving the additional background; the repairs suggested are legitimate!
Thank you for your reply. After reading Mr. Richards (dartman69) post along with the one from OK4450 and now yours I have decided to go ahead with all of the recommended services. Not being a car guy I was unaware of the need for these services. In the past I have always purchased new cars and taken them to the dealer to have the scheduled maintanace performed. I thought that everybody did this. My biggest concern was that previous tune-up’s run me about $250.00 and this one was going to cost me $800.00. Thank you all for your input and I will let you know how everything works out. I dropped the car off with Mr. Richards this morning and he said it would be ready by 5.
I would like to thank the members of this forum for there advice. I picked up my vehicle from Mr. Richards (Dartman69) last night at 5:00 p.m. and all I can say is WOW!
The vehicle was ready on time just as I was told, and the old parts were available for my inspection. I paid my bill $792.50 ($7.50 less then estimated) and got in the vehicle. The first thing I noticed was that it was clean. Previous experience with the dealer my cars would have grease on the steering wheel, muddy foot prints on the floor mat and grease marks on the paint that was not the case this time. My car started immediately. Usually I had to crank it for 10-15 seconds before it would fire. I put the transmision in gear and pressed on the gas like usual only this time the tires spun. I thought the car was quick before but nothing like it is now. I put 100 miles on the car last night driving with my wife and we were both impressed with the new found performance this car has. The heater and defrost works much better then it had previously and the car runs slightly cooler then it used to. Mr. Richards also provided me with the compression information, the new fuel pressure specs, and a copy of GM’s maintenance schedule for my car. Also included in the repairs was a complete “light check” and the replacement of 2 side marker bulbs I didn’t know were burned out and a recommendation that I have the transmision serviced soon. I would like to thank Mr. Richards for his excellent and proffesional work.