50psi is pretty darn good, imo
50psi wouldn’t make me think “time for an oil and filter service”
50psi is pretty darn good, imo
50psi wouldn’t make me think “time for an oil and filter service”
I concur, 50 psi wouldn’t signal any alerts for me either. However 35 would get me looking at the dipstick straight away, and 25 definitely would cause big concerns…
But that’s different than something to use for an oil change indicator.
It might be because the new oil is cooler than the old oil was in the warm engine after you changed it. Did you drive it around a bit and then come back at let it idle to test the pressure in the exact same way as the old oil?
Well then it wouldn’t work on that type of vehicle. If the oil pressure is high enough to have the bypass opened then slightly lower oil pressure can’t be used as an indication that the oil viscosity is failing.
You could be changing your oil soon enough so the oil viscosity is never getting to the point where it is failing. Also, your oil pressure gage may not be precise enough or your oil system maintains constant pressure.
Some engine computers monitor oil pressure and temperature to verify that the correct viscosity engine oil is used. If oil pressure could be used as a reliable input for the maintenance computer, vehicle manufactures would take advantage of that data.
It can’t because people may add oil of unknown viscosity between changes without the computer knowing about it.
The algorithm can be designed to look for a new baseline when the service reminder is reset. Plus short and long term running averages of pressure profiles. Very do-able with software.
I’d guess the reason my truck’s oil thins a bit with use is not so much b/c the oil is degrading, but that a little gasoline is getting into the sump during rich-warm-ups and diluting the oil. More of a problem w/carburetor-equipped engines than fuel-injected probably.
Good point, George. Goes to the problem with trying to use oil pressure as a measure of oil life - it can be affected by LOTS of things. And why bother even thinking about this when using OLM, or miles, have been proven to work just fine.
Has the 20,000 miles guaranteed been proven to work just fine on your engine? Do you trust what is on the oil at Walmart, or any place that sells oil that says “synthetic” on the bottle?
Never figured out on my Trailblazer, after 200k miles Always read the same, came to find out it was just a calculated value, not actual oil pressure.
I’m obviously referring to factory specifications.
Poor crankcase ventilation causes oil to get black quickly after oil change.
Or just use Arco’s Graphite oil from the 70’s. It comes black. Not clear at all.