haha true, and that’s the best way for me I guess
I suggest that you use the recommended multiweight oils and not the 10W60 used last time.
There’s a good chance just refilling w/the proper oil and amount will cure the leak problem If it doesn’t, and indeed a seal or two could have popped in this situation, deal w/that problem then. Suggest to avoid starting the engine until the current oil issue is resolved. There’s some threads here on useful tips for diy oil changes by the way, if you decide to go that route. The advantage of doing it yourself is , beyond being sure it’s been done right, is you have time while the oil is draining the car jack up to inspect for problems in waiting, like cracked CV joint boots, debris clogging the vents under the windshield, door hinges that need lubing, etc. That kind of preventive inspection can save a lot of money and grief over time.
Thanks for the tip.
Let’s suppose I drain out all the oil, put in the proper one and the leak disappears. Wouldn’t there be a chance of something else being affected? Would the potential oil froth created by the extra pressure just go away when getting the oil level back to normal?
Anything that might be affected has already been affected. Draining and refilling to the proper level will have absolutely no additional affect.
The froth will disappear. Just for the record, it isn’t from pressure, it’s from aeration, just like when you whip up a batter that you’re going to cook. It affects the ability of the pump to be able to maintain a proper pressurized fluid barrier between the bearings and their respective surfaces rather than being caused by pressure. You have the cause and effect reversed. Aeration causes loss of pressure rather than pressure causing aeration.
So there’s no point on going to a mechanic if I drain and replace the oil by myself?
Thanks for the explanation. The patience and clarity that u guys put into this gives some sense to this mistake as I’m learning interesting stuff, I really appreciate it
Try it. If you discover any residual side effects, post back.
If not, post back anyway. We enjoy happy endings.
That amount of overfill is insignificant, that will not cause leaks. Your engine is probably leaking because of aged seals. I frequently see oil levels an inch (25 cm) over full and drain out a quart, these engines do not leak because of being overfilled.
10W60 is an unusually thick choice in weight, I don’t believe this will cause a leak.
I don’t see any way it could.
I’m inclined to agree that any leakage detected is normal age-related.
One comment in the original post that probably should be explained to the OP is the engine being hot 20 minutes after being shut off. Once the engine is shut off, the fan stops moving cooling air through the engine compartment and the water pump stops moving coolant through the engine. Heat inside the engine, and in the cylinders that routinely exceeds 1,000F sometimes getting much hotter, then moves through the engine’s internals and radiates out the engine’s surfaces heating up the outside of the engine and the surrounding real estate. Remember that this includes the exhaust manifold too. The temperature under the hood rises, and it takes time for it to cool down from there. In short, the engine’s surface and the underhood areas get hotter before they get cooler.
All right! I’ll do it by myself! Already got 3 liters of Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 (wanted to go for Total as recommended by Peugeot but there’s no seller close to my area)
This is the way I wanted it when I bought the car, to get involved and learn, so let’s go for it.
I assume first I need to locate the oil pan, put a container underneath and unscrew the oil drain plug to let the oil drip. I’ve read that when draining the oil is better to do it with the engine warm to dispose of harmful deposits, but I guess that in this case I’d rather not, right?
I also assume there’s no need to take the oil filter off, right?
Anything else I should do / be aware of?
Correct on all points. Drain cold, have a container that can hold more than you are adding since its overfilled. You can leave the filter on. There should be a washer on the drain plug itself that acts like a gasket on the drain plug made of aluminum, copper, plastic or similar. They are easy to lose in the drain pan in a rush of oil. Don’t assume you just pour in the X liters of oil the manual says it holds. Add X-1 liters and then check the dipstick. Add until full.
Be sure the car is safely supported with jack stands, NOT just the jack the car came with. Spread some paper under the drain pan because some always escapes. Dispose of the waste oil properly…
Since you’re new to DIYing, I’d recommend that you buy a repair manual before starting. You want to be sure you don’t accidentally drain the wrong fluid.
We don’t have Peugeots around here, so I don’t know what kind of filter this uses, but with filters contained in their own canisters and spun on, you do not want to overtighten the filter. It should be wrist tight only. No filter wrench should be used when tightening. I wear a latex rubber glove, cause my wrists aren’t as strong as they were when I was younger… arthritis has taken its toll.
The same torque warning applies to the drain plug. I have a set of “stubby” wrenches that I use to put the plug back in, to prevent overtightening. Stripped threads are not an uncommon occurrence among newbies… and ham-fisted mechanics that don’t care about their workmanship.
As regards the jack stands, I personally prefer molded ramps, and some vehicles I’ve owned didn’t even need to be elevated to change the oil and filter.
For a drain pan I use a $1 aluminum turkey roasting pan. It has extra capacity, I can easily form a drain spout, and I can just crumple it up and throw it away after doing my oil. No need to store an oil-wetted drain pan.
The OP probably just noticed the engine heat that has always been there because of concern about other matters.
@santinovillo Please dispose of the used oil properly.
I need to get the jack stands first. I guess something like this should do, right?
I’d looked for one but I just found it in russian. There doesn’t seem to be much material my car around the Internet. Even the official handbook contains almost no information regarding mechanical aspects. I’ll keep looking, though I think I’ve located the sump.
I will. Thanks again to all of you guys for your help
Here’s some good diy’er oil change tips
Yup, those jack stand will do.
@santinovillo Is it possible to have someone help you that has jacked up vehicles and changed oil before.
A bit of an update in case you are interested.
As much as I wanted to do it myself, I finally decided to take it to the mechanic because I realized it would be too risky trying to place the stand jacks using a scissor jack (I would have to lift up one side of the car at a time).
Anyway, it was a good thing to do after all cos they identified the origin of the leak and it has nothing to do with this incident. The leak seems to be coming either from the oil pump or the crankshaft seal.
I’m going to take it to another mechanic on Monday where they recently replaced the cam-belt. Problem might have to do with a bad job. They even found a bolt really badly screwed completely coming out. The previous owner is going to take responsibility for it.
Good decision, never use that flimsy scissor jack for anything except for a roadside emergency. Get a good floor jack that’s rated to hold more than what your car weighs (and always use the aformentioned jack stands in the previous post with the floor jacks). Glad to hear you have a good resolution, we like to hear the eventual answers to the many puzzles that get posted here And good for the previous owner to take responsibility for it, he’s paying for it I take it?
Concur, for diy’er work like that, really no safe substitute for a floor jack. And floor jacks able to lift a Peugeot safely aren’t overly expensive. If you have no place to store the floor jack, that can be a problem for which the best solution is to just hire the work out and forget about the diy’er idea. If you decide to try the diy’er method someday, be sure to only jack at the approved jacking points. Otherwise you can damage the vehicle. On my Corolla, the typical way I do it, I use the floor jack to lift the car at the center jacking point (under the front cross member for the front for example), then when it is up in the air high enough I place the jack stand under the rocker panel jacking point, marked on the rocker panel with a little triangle.