Be it synthetic or non synthetic are there any differences in oils depending on whom the manufacturer might be? Is Pennzoil 5w30 any different from say mobile or Castrol? Are more cars going to synthetic because it lasts longer or is a better lubricant then the old style oils?
Fuel economy is the reason car manufacturers are switching to synthetics.
Synthetics’ improved flow during cold starts also improves fuel economy. Since they don’t contain waxes, which are inherent to conventional oils, they don’t thicken as much when your vehicle sits overnight. In the morning, when you start your vehicle and drive away, the motor oil, transmission fluid and gear lube don’t require as much effort to circulate. This results in less wasted energy and improved fuel economy.
It’s important to note that “cold” doesn’t only apply to us northern folks. “Normal” operating temperature for a vehicle can be up to 235ºF, and anything below that is considered cold to your engine. So even down south at the height of summer, synthetics’ improved cold-flow can still help improve fuel economy.
Gas probably won’t remain cheap forever – prepare yourself by switching to synthetic lubricants if you haven’t already.
The change to synthetics means that they can be produced with lower viscosities. Lower viscosity means better gas mileage. It also means that there is better lubrication at startup, where most engine wear occurs. That is a secondary benefit from the car companies standpoint, though it is the primary benefit from the owner’s viewpoint.
I think the differences between motor oil manufacturers are small since they all have to meet minimum standards. Just make sure the oil you buy meets the standards that GM set for your Caddie.
Base oil group, additive package, nonack, and where the specific viscosity lands on it’s given range ( There are “light” 5W-30 and “heavier” 5W-30’s for example) are all going to vary somewhat. But it’s nothing the average consumer would likely notice or care about.
Both. With 10k OCI’s being common these days, larger oil sumps with synthetic oil are becoming more common. My 2016 Mustang has an 8 quart oil pan. The old 351W in my old Bronco had a 6 quart pan, despite it being a larger engine. With the Mustang you’re supposed to change the oil when the OLM says to, or 10k miles, whichever comes first. The Bronco spec’d oil changes every 5000 miles for normal driving and every 3000 miles for “severe conditions”. It used conventional dino oil.
I agree. Different? Yes (given same specs). Important difference? Not in my opinion. Problems occur because of low oil, too long between changes, or (on rare occasion) wrong spec oil. Not because of brand performance (given that it meets spec for its label).
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Some years back, Consumer Reports tested motor oils and found that the same brand of oil purchased in different regions of them country performed differently. My guess is that one refinery may bottle oil under different brand name labels.
I think synthetic oils are superior. My 25 year old push type lawnmower was burning oil and really puffing out the blue smoke. I was using conventional heavy detergent 30 weight. I bought a quart of full synthetic 10W -30 for $2.69 under the house brand label at my local Rural King farm store. It cut the oil consumption by 75% for the last two seasons and was only $1 more than conventional oil. Unfortunately, the mower began using more oil when I was mulching leaves last fall, so I may have to go mower shopping this coming spring.
Rural King also had 0W -20 under its house brand label for the same price that meets the specifications for my Toyota Sienna. If I still did my own oil changes, I wouldn’t hesitate to use this oil. I did buy a quart and keep it in the van in case I have to add a quart between changes, but I have never had to add any oil.
I agree with this statement.
As long as you’re using a brand name oil (beware of fleamarket oil) that has the API and SAE stamps on it, and it meets the specifications prescribed by your owner’s manual, and you keep it above the FILL mark on the dipstick, the oil itself will not be a factor in your engine’s reliability or longevity. They’re all good.
One caveat: if you have very old oil in storage, don’t try to use it on a modern engine. Oil specs have changed over the years, and if you have to punch the top of a can of oil with an old fashioned metal spout, save that for… posterity.
Yes and Yes.
Synthetic has far more stable viscosity - thickness - over a wide range of temperature. More “pump-able” when cold, less thinning when hot. That in itself provides better lubrication. It doesn’t coke-up when very hot - good for turbocharger bearings.
I’ve used synthetics in every place I can in every car, truck, lawnmower and generator I own for many years. I’ve used it in a 96,000 mile Suburban I bought used. It took 2 oil changes for it to clean out the massive deposits left behind by a door-full of Quaker State oil-change stickers. when I opened the engine up for a head gasket repair, only the chunkiest bits of the old oil deposits remained.
My first road race car, an un-modified engined Saturn Coupe used exclusively. When I did a check on the bearings after 2 years of racing, all looked brand new.
So yes, it is better than dino oil and worth the cost to me.
Mobil 1 is all I use. Its a bit expensive. I try to catch it on sale, but overall its cheaper than letting someone else change it. I was always taught that if you change your own oil you can get a better grade of oil. Mobil 1 proves less internal friction helps your engine last longer.
Back in the day I used synthetic blends. But I go full synthetic now.
Really ? I don’t think that is true.