Well I’ll stand corrected on that point since I haven’t read all the manuals. It is kind of a moot point though since getting a 0-20 weight in a non full synthetic is pretty hard to find.
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My daughters 2017 Corolla requires full synthetic oil, 0w20… Some newer Toyotas require 0w16 full synthetic oil, they are 10K oil changes, but she still changes it every 5K as well as R&B and alignments…
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Logical and sensible answer. I bought OEM today. Mobil 1 0W-20 extended performance full synthetic compliant with all specified standards and tests seen in the manual. No room for warranty bs. I’ll keep the OCI at no more than 4k miles and shoot for 3500. Going to keep researching which is the best option though. I just picked this because it seemed safe and I need a change NLT tomorrow.
Interested in this nu engine and how to prevent the premature failure scenario and piston slap etc. So I will research the royal purple, high mileage formulations, viscosities of 0w-20 etc.
Thanks for this thoughtful response. For this oil change I’m going with the Mobil 1 extended performance 0w-20 from Walmart, fully compliant with the standards & specs in the manual. Kia filter (and gasket? Apparently this is a metal washer looking thing? Never seen that before).
Not sure if that’s the best choice for oil or not yet, but seems it is just a safe choice this go around? At least I know exactly what’s going in and how much for now? I feel like it’s hard to trust anyone to even change oil right anymore. 2020 blew us up.
I am presuming that your metal washer is the drain plug gasket.
Keep the old oil which has at least 8000 miles left on it still. Mix it with one part SAE 40 oil. Now you have something like 20(partial w)30 synthetic blend oil. Perfect for all lawn mowers and air cooled stuff!
When using thin oils like 20, it is important that the oil filter pick up fine particles left in the oil. So the performance of the oil filter is much more important than in an engine that takes 40 weight oil.
Maybe the warranty won’t be needed in that case? If the car has issues with piston slap, does that mean they’re doing what GM did in the 70s, where the block was made out of a soft cast iron and the tolerances were poor?
Maybe the OP needs to get a replacement engine now while they’re more available and store it until the time comes.
You should replace the oil plug gasket/washer with every oil change. If it is a crush washer, care must be taken to not over-torque the plug. A torque wrench can be used but also just a wrench or ratchet/socket tightened to the “knee of the curve”. That is the point after the washer starts to crush, gets easier to turn and then suddenly gets much harder to turn. Don’t go past this point. That generally occurs about 3/4 to 7/8 turn past initial contact (as far as you can go finger tight).
Thanks! I’m not doing it myself (warranty requires qualified mechanic do work on it, no desire for surprises or more arguments than needed should warranty claims come).
I am just very skeptical of anyone touching my car these days after all the poor customer service and lack of professionalism that I’m seeing in our society lately, so whatever can be in my control I try to be knowledgeable about and take ownership of it. It’s really all about that good night’s sleep that was spoken of earlier.
Uh, who told you that? Independent shops aren’t going to do warranty work for a manufacturer. At least not without their consent. And the manufacturer will certainly insist that you go to their dealership for manufacture’s warranty claims.
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Not comfortable going outside spec until after warranty because I can’t afford this:
Yes. Confirmed with the dealer today. Why would they tell me it’s a oil filter gasket!? Dumbfounded.
The gasket is often included with the filter if bought at the dealership. If the parts guy was the one who told you it was a filter gasket, then you know why he is a parts guy and not one of the mechanics. He may eventually become a mechanic but right now, he is just a parts guy.
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Lol! Not going to lie I love this forum. Definitely quality attention and consideration.
More comments!!
Please do not take @TheWonderful90s comments seriously. Sometimes he’s joking, other times (like many of his comments regarding oil and engine construction) he’s mistaken. Often I can’t tell which.
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First mile on the mobil 1 and can say it’s definitely quieter compared to before. Am I crazy or does it feel “tighter” or more stable too? I think the oil the dealer put in was not good. Noticed more tick after that oil change (suspected synthetic blend) at the dealer in my new location.
Should have been providing my own oil this whole time. Lesson re-learned.
Thinner oil makes engines wear out faster. Do you disagree with this? Modern engines have tight tolerances, so the reduced life resulting from using thinner oil is minimal. Many if not most engines will go to 300k miles with 5W20 or 5W30 oil. Most cars will be junked before this due to other issues.
I’ve seen no evidence that engines wear out quicker with 0W20 oil. Engine wore out much faster in the ‘good old days’ with 30 weight.
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Try going to the good old days and use 5W20.
Not with the huge oil clearances those engines had.
And as I commented about 75 posts ago, these engine tend to die at 100K. They sludge up, start using a bit of oil and the owners never check the levels so…
7500 mile oil change intervals mean the engine is 3 or 4 quarts low at the next change resulting in Knock, Knock… who is there? Rod! Rod who? Rod Knock!
Even if well treated, sludge and oil use still happen.
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So it’s a similar issue as with the Toyotas from 2005 then. Either the rings get stuck do to sludge, or the oil passage clog up, and then the pistons lose lubrication and wear out.
Tight tolerances create more sludge with multi viscosity oils. The tight tolerances actually break the oil apart, or I think the viscosity modifier molecules apart. That’s what I read. So 5W20 or 0W20 traditional or synthetic blend oil being changed at 7500 miles is way too long. If they made SAE 20 you could get away with it because I think it would sludge less.